Pepperoni Rolls

Pepperoni Rolls
Con Poulos for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Donna Hay.
Total Time
About 2½ hours
Rating
4(113)
Notes
Read community notes

Found throughout West Virginia, the pepperoni roll was born in the early 20th century in the north-central part of the state as a convenient lunch for Italian coal miners. Giuseppe Argiro is credited with first selling the rolls commercially, sometime between 1927 and 1938, and his Country Club Bakery, in Fairmont, W.Va., still uses his recipe, the standard by which all other rolls in the state are judged. The recipe remains a secret, but this version — from the chef Travis Milton and featured in Ronni Lundy’s cookbook, “Victuals” (Clarkson Potter, 2016) — is a close approximation. Look for a hunk of pepperoni to slice into sticks, as it gives the roll more chew. Many West Virginians add cheese to their versions, so feel free to experiment once you’re comfortable with the recipe. —Sara Bonisteel

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Ingredients

Yield:6 rolls
  • 1cup/240 milliliters warm water (110 to 115 degrees)
  • teaspoons active dry yeast (from 1 individual packet)
  • 1teaspoon maple syrup, sorghum syrup or honey
  • cups/350 grams all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
  • 1teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1teaspoon olive oil, plus more as needed
  • Nonstick cooking spray
  • 1(8-ounce/225-gram) pepperoni stick or 6 ounces pepperoni slices
  • ¼cup/55 grams unsalted butter (½ stick), melted
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

501 calories; 28 grams fat; 12 grams saturated fat; 1 gram trans fat; 12 grams monounsaturated fat; 3 grams polyunsaturated fat; 47 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 1 gram sugars; 14 grams protein; 603 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Add the warm water to a measuring cup. Stir in the yeast and syrup, then let stand for 5 minutes.

  2. Step 2

    In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, add the flour, salt, 1 teaspoon oil and yeast mixture. Pulse several times on low to combine, then knead on low until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl, about 5 minutes. The dough will be sticky.

  3. Step 3

    Grease a large bowl with cooking spray or olive oil. Use floured hands to remove the dough from the mixing bowl and transfer it to the greased bowl. Cover the bowl using a damp towel, and let the dough sit in a warm place for 45 minutes to rise.

  4. Step 4

    As dough rises, prepare the stick pepperoni (if using): Cut the pepperoni into 2 (5-inch) lengths. Cut each piece lengthwise into 3 slabs, then cut each of those slabs lengthwise into 3 even batons, forming a total of 18 pieces, each 5 inches long and about ⅓-inch wide.

  5. Step 5

    Lightly spray or oil a baking sheet. When the dough is ready, use floured hands to remove the dough from the bowl and transfer it to a floured surface. Cut it into 6 equal portions, about 4 ounces each, and roll them into balls. Place the balls on the prepared baking sheet. Spray or lightly oil the top of each ball of dough and cover the baking sheet lightly with plastic wrap. Let sit for 20 minutes.

  6. Step 6

    Heat oven to 350 degrees. Uncover the dough. Using floured hands, remove a dough ball and place it on a floured work surface. Either roll or stretch the dough into a 6-by-8-inch rectangle. (Be careful not to make the dough too thin, or it will be hard to roll up the pepperoni.)

  7. Step 7

    Set a 6-inch edge of the rectangle facing you. Starting about 1½ inches from the short edge closest to you, place 3 pepperoni sticks crosswise on the dough, leaving about 1½ inches between each stick.

  8. Step 8

    Take the dough edge closest to you, fold it over the first pepperoni stick, adhering the top layer of dough to the bottom layer of dough, and then proceed to make 2 more folds away from you to enrobe the remaining 2 pepperoni sticks. If using slices, imagine separating your dough into thirds by creating 2 crosswise rows of pepperoni, each overlapped like a spread of cards, 6 pepperoni slices wide. Fold the dough closest to you over the first row of pepperoni slices, then fold up the dough to cover the second row of pepperoni slices, so the pepperoni and dough form alternating layers.

  9. Step 9

    Return the roll to the baking sheet, setting it seam-side down. (Resist the urge to tuck in or fold over the shorter ends.) Repeat this process with the remaining dough balls and pepperoni sticks or slices.

  10. Step 10

    Brush the rolls with the melted butter and bake until golden brown and cooked through, 30 to 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and brush with any remaining butter. Let cool completely before serving.

Ratings

4 out of 5
113 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

Ok - WV native here and I'll give you the worlds easiest cheat for this. Buy frozen dinner rolls (we use Rhodes) and let them thaw and rise. Stretch each one out and use either a 2" stick or several slices (my dad was adamant that 7 slices of Hormel sliced pepperoni was needed per roll). Wrap the dough around and place seam-side down to let rise a 2nd time. Once they double(ish) in size bake at 350 for 15-20 minutes until brown. Boom, you've got a pile of junk food deliciousness

Since I don't want to go to the grocery anytime soon due to the pandemic, hmmm, I might just substitute strips of cooked bacon for the pepperoni, or maybe thick ropes of good cheese. Endless variations to be had in this time of necessary creativity. Look forward to when I can try the pepperoni though.

These were delicious. Made recipe as written but added garlic powder and a pinch of kosher salt to the last buttering( after baking). Don’t skip the pre and post bake buttering! Used sliced pepperoni. Two of us ate them all.

A friend asked me to make these for him with chorizo and pepper jack cheese. Aside from that I followed the recipe exactly and they are fantastic and fun to make. I will be making them again with a variety of combinations of sausages (soppresatta, salami, etc.) and cheeses (parmesan, feta, etc.).

Buy frozen dinner rolls (we use Rhodes) and let them thaw and rise. Stretch each one out and use either a 2" stick or several slices (my dad was adamant that 7 slices of Hormel sliced pepperoni was needed per roll). Wrap the dough around and place seam-side down to let rise a 2nd time. Once they double(ish) in size bake at 350 for 15-20 minutes until brown. Boom, you've got a pile of junk food deliciousness

Here’s a trick, if you want an easier dough but still want to make it yourself, use a Easy challah dough. That’s what my family’s been doing for years. Challah is almost foolproof.

My spouse grew up eating Lake Superior Pizza pepperoni rolls from Marquette, MI, & these are close. I added sliced block mozzarella before rolling, may paint some pizza sauce before the pepperoni & cheese next time. I used Hormel slices, 15 to the oz, probably only doing 12 next time.

Love this recipe! Have made it twice now, the dough comes together so easily and so well. Both times I added a little cheese in with the pepperoni (slices of turkey pepperoni work just fine).

Substituted 90 grams of sour dough brioche dough for each yeast version roll. Results were sophisticated enough for the adults. Flavors were best integrated after cooling for four to six hours. Picnics, after school, beach house.

Another native West Virginian here; have been making pepperoni rolls for 55 years for the hunters in my family. After baking, I let them cool and then wrap in plastic wrap (aluminum foil makes too much noise in the woods). Next morning, the men tuck the rolls into their pockets/packs and off they go. These also make a fabulous addition to a picnic/road trip. The more pepperoni you can add, the better! Honestly, thought...they really are BEST warm!

There is NOTHING like a pepperoni roll fresh from the oven! They've been our pandemic favorite and we make them 2-3 times a week. Love this recipe! :)

I made these today. In fact, I made them TWICE today! They were easy, fun, and delicious! I used pepperoni slices. These would be perfect to make with children. I followed the recipe exactly and they came out perfect both times. I spent 10 years in West Virginia in the 80s, my hubs is from Los Angeles and had never had a pepperoni roll. He’s a convert now!

Second the recommendation for the Rhodes dinner rolls. They work great!

These were delicious. Made recipe as written but added garlic powder and a pinch of kosher salt to the last buttering( after baking). Don’t skip the pre and post bake buttering! Used sliced pepperoni. Two of us ate them all.

I was just able to score some yeast at the grocery store last week and was wondering what wonders I could make with it. Thanks for this recipe. I can always count on you all to have *just the right thing* on your site! Thanks!

Ok - WV native here and I'll give you the worlds easiest cheat for this. Buy frozen dinner rolls (we use Rhodes) and let them thaw and rise. Stretch each one out and use either a 2" stick or several slices (my dad was adamant that 7 slices of Hormel sliced pepperoni was needed per roll). Wrap the dough around and place seam-side down to let rise a 2nd time. Once they double(ish) in size bake at 350 for 15-20 minutes until brown. Boom, you've got a pile of junk food deliciousness

Another great cheat option (from another WV native) is to do the same with frozen bread dough. I've made these many times with simple store-bought dough, and it comes out of the oven very close to Country Club's signature flavor. I always cut the pepperoni into five-inch sticks, three per roll.

I live in the northern panhandle of WV. Just outside of Pittsburgh. I've never had a pepperoni roll with sticks. In our neck of the woods it's usually a liberal amount of slices covered with grated mozzarella then rolled up. I've also seen them made more like a calzone. Every version is pretty much delicious. Mancini's in The Strip District in Pittsburgh has great pepperoni rolls. https://www.mancinisbakery.com/our-story/

Meaning no offense, those rolls don't look much like the originals--they look flatter, denser. When I first saw them I thought they were fried rolls. The dough might need a bit more enriching; enriched doughs make breads more 'shelf stable' like packaged breads. Personally I'd use milk and butter instead of water and oil (and a tad bit more butter & sugar). I'd try a recipe for enriched dough for the rolls and add the pepperoni. Enriched doughs are tender and usually brown nicely on their own.

In Fairmont, pepperoni rolls were often sliced open and served warm with chili and cheese for an added touch.

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Credits

Adapted from “Victuals” by Ronni Lundy (Clarkson Potter, 2016)

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