A tour of Madrid’s artiest districts with ARCOmadrid director Maribel López

This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Madrid

It is well known that Madrid is wonderful for museums. To be able to walk in 15 minutes from the Thyssen museum to the Reina Sofia, a route that also passes the Prado and CaixaForum, is a real privilege. You can spend several days without seeing the city’s famously sunny sky but instead soaking in Spain’s rich cultural heritage.  

What is not as well known is the richness of Madrid’s art-gallery scene. The capital’s galleries are much more than places to see and buy art, but where curators warmly welcome curious visitors who are keen to learn about their artists. 

Going to galleries often helps me to discover more of my city and see different areas in a new light. There are more than 50 in the Arte Madrid association, a network of modern and contemporary spaces across the city, with many of them in exciting neighbourhoods for food, shopping and sightseeing. Below I’ve highlighted some of my favourite galleries by area.

Salamanca

The elegant Salamanca neighbourhood is home to some of the most historic galleries in the city. I will often start my visits around here at the impressive Álvaro Alcázar, which specialises in paintings, sculptures and works in paper by contemporary Spanish artists. I always make time for a stop at La Mejor Tarta de Chocolate del Mundo, a charming small café whose name translated into English is “the best chocolate cake in the world”. It certainly lives up to the claim, and, should you wish to enjoy your treats alfresco, it is situated opposite the picturesque Parque de El Retiro.

Not too far away is the excellent Guillermo de Osma, which opened in 1991 and has a strong emphasis on the European and Latin American avant-gardes of 1910 to 1970. Some of art’s greatest hits can be found at Fernández-Braso, also nearby, and is a journey through 20th century painting.

Once gallery-hopping in Salamanca is complete, I recommend heading to Calle de Claudio Coello, which offers plenty of chic options for lunch or dinner. A favourite spot of mine is Lobito de Mar, which has fantastic seafood (I usually order the set menu or enjoy the catch of the day). The original Amazónico location is also nearby, which is another go-to when I’m craving Latin American food. It’s best experienced in the evening, when it comes alive as a jazz club.

Chamberí

Chamberí is a vibrant, traditional neighbourhood where gallery spaces have multiplied in recent years. It would take days to visit all of them, though I’d suggest starting at Freijo, which puts emerging Spanish art in dialogue with the most prestigious Latin American, mainly Mexican, artists.

From there, I recommend the nearby NF for modern art; Cayón, which promotes Spanish artists (its inaugural exhibition in 2005 was centred on no less than Picasso and it has continued to impress ever since); and the modern and contemporary Elvira González and Marlborough (the latter also has outposts in New York, London and Barcelona). Carlier Gebauer also offers a visual feast, with conceptual works ranging from sculpture and installation to film, photography, painting and drawing.

Chamberí is also home to dozens of excellent eateries worth taking pause at. Soy Kitchen, run by chef Julio Zhang, is a favourite for dim sum and well-made cocktails. For traditional Spanish cuisine with an organic, sustainable focus, La Vaquería Montañesa feels like a home away from home, serving simple dishes like anchovies and croquetas, yet the interior is minimalist and modern. 

Justicia and Chueca

These are two of Madrid’s liveliest neighbourhoods in terms of nightlife, restaurants, bars and shops, and they’re also home to a slew of excellent art galleries.

To gear up for a day of exploring galleries, I like to start with coffee and a sweet treat at La Duquesita, one of the best pastry shops in Madrid, before walking along to Nogueras Blanchard, which is located next door to a charming Anglican church building. Most of the artists on show here have a conceptual practice, making the exhibitions unique and thought-provoking. From there, I recommend stopping into both Travesía Cuatro and Elba Benítez — galleries established by women that have championed emerging and mid-career artists — and the newly opened Pedro Cera, a gallerist headquartered in Lisbon that represents contemporary installation artists and sculptors.

There are so many other venues worth visiting too, treasure troves of art and ideas that are within walking distance of each other: Max Estrella, Casado Santapau and Rafael Pérez Hernando, as well as Albarrán Bourdais, which has an extraordinary space on the corner of Calle del Barquillo. It had an exhibition last year by the acclaimed French artist Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster, who specialises in video production, installation work and photography. It’s not to be missed.

Barrio de la Letras

Close to the great museums you can discover the historic avant-garde at Galería Leandro Navarro, where you might see works by Dalí, Picasso or Georges Valmier. Nearby, at José de la Mano, the creative experiments of Spanish and Latin American artists from the 1950s to 1970s are on display, offering kaleidoscopic colour and geometric abstraction.

After art viewings, dining at Triciclo is a must. They serve traditional dishes with a contemporary twist, though I always ask for the tapas menu, for variety and a showcase of the chefs’ creativity.

Lavapiés

The multicultural Lavapiés district has a hub of galleries around Calle del Doctor Fourquet, including Helga de Alvear, the eponymous gallery of the 88-year-old German-Spanish art collector and dealer, which recently exhibited the works of artist duo M+M. Their film installations and photo series reflect on contemporary crises such as the pandemic and loneliness epidemic. Doctor Fourquet is also home to F2, Moisés Pérez de Albéniz, Espacio Mínimo and Juan Silió galleries, and very close by, 1Mira Madrid, Maisterravalbuena and Rosa Santos.

If you’re charged with energy and good art and it’s time for a drink, there are plenty of options, though I recommend starting with a cold glass of cava at La Fisna, a castizo (traditional tavern) for wine lovers.

Maribel López is the managing director of ARCOmadrid, Spain’s largest contemporary art fair. The next edition will be held from March 6 to 10 (further information and tickets here)

What’s your favourite art space in Madrid? Tell us in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter

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