My Left Bank, by Paul & Joe founder Sophie Mechaly

This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Paris

I live on the Left Bank of the city in the seventh arrondissement (Invalides, between Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Eiffel Tower). It’s a very Parisian neighbourhood where families have lived for generations. I was born there, and have lived there ever since. But on my weekend walks around the quartier, I still discover new places. Behind the beautiful doors that line our streets are worlds waiting to be discovered; when I pass by an entrance, I often peek in as there is always something interesting going on behind it. 

Not far from my house is the Musée Rodin, the famous sculpture museum with an amazing garden that has been open since 1919. This peaceful place is very special to me, and I often will go there for a while on Saturday morning. About 10 minutes from here is Saint-Germain-des-Prés, where I spent my childhood. Since then, I have always gone for walks there and lunched at Bar de la Croix Rouge with its little terrace. I have known the people who own this place (Nathalie and Gérard Paganucci) for 30 years. They serve excellent tartines with cheese and pickles, or tuna melt with tomatoes, on bread from the Poilâne bakery. If I want something more substantial, I order their oeufs mayonnaise and lentil salad with a glass of red wine (Château Chasse-Spleen) and afterwards their delicious warm tarte Tatin, which is thick but not greasy. It’s a family place you can go to with people from the neighbourhood. I love watching the beautiful old French ladies — sometimes they are laughing and sometimes complaining, but I find them so fabulous. 

Afterwards, on my way to the galleries on the Left Bank, I stop for a moment at Place de Furstemberg, a tiny square with just a couple of trees and a bench. When I sit there, I feel like I am in a Woody Allen movie. One of the buildings you can see from the square is a big house with a large curtain and I always wonder who lives here — it looks like a place where an old famous dancer might live. I always think it must be the most special place to live. 

I often pop into Galerie Vallois on Rue de Seine to see work by artists and designers I absolutely love such as Jean-Michel Frank. Nearby, I also love the Kamel Mennour gallery, where I have purchased a few things in the past. Café-brasserie La Palette, which has been on Rue de Seine forever, serves delicious wine and cheeses, and beautiful bread and butter. Sometimes I stop there for coffee in the afternoon on the terrace to watch people walking by. Lots of interesting and creative young people live in this neighbourhood.

Afterwards, I walk along the Quai Voltaire to cross over to the Right Bank, across Pont Alexandre III. To my mind, it’s the city’s most beautiful bridge — the lights and the columns remind me of old Paris. When the sun sets, it’s one of the most beautiful spots to stand. I particularly love going to exhibitions just over the bridge at the Grand Palais. Twice a year, they have a flea market on Pont Alexandre III — you’ll find antiques stalls, vintage fashion, silverware and things you don’t need but also never normally find. I often chat to people, learn about the objets and how people came to own them. It’s inspiring and fun, and a treat for your senses. 

When dusk falls, I head back to the Left Bank. In front of Les Invalides there is a café with a big terrace called Café de l’Esplanade, with the same owners as Hôtel Costes. I love sitting outside to watch who comes by as it’s a friendly neighbourhood restaurant. The wine selection is fantastic, and the fish and salads are so nice. The best thing, though, is the location. I often go in spring after work with my fiancé and my sons. We get a nice table and just take in the view. 

Another recent discovery for dinner nearby is Ojii, a new Japanese restaurant in the seventh arrondissement. With its discreet signage over a black door it feels like entering a nightclub. Inside, everything is painted in what I can only describe as the colour of Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium perfume. With its red-orange colour scheme, it reminds me of walking into the YSL store with my mother in the 1970s. The food is very special, in particular the amazing sashimi. My favourite dishes are the caviar soba and nigiri of toro ikejime. Everything is sophisticated but authentic. You can feel the guy behind the restaurant created this with all his heart. 

Tell us about your favourite Left Bank haunts in the comments below

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