Six of chef Hélène Darroze’s favourite Paris restaurants

This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Paris

I was born in Mont de Marsan in Les Landes, in the south-west of France, and I’m the fourth generation from a family of chefs. I grew up instilled with a deep respect for my own regional culture and ingredients, but in my early thirties, I broke with family tradition and moved to Paris to open my own venture in the heart of Saint-Germain des Prés. Paris has been my home ever since, and it is a place I am always happy to return to from my travels and work overseas, with a food culture that is particularly inspiring. Here are some of my favourite places to eat and drink in the French capital.

Passerini

65 Rue Traversière, 75012 Paris

A must-try is Passerini, where chef Giovanni is a master pasta-maker and brings a taste of Italy into the heart of Paris. Their menu changes regularly, depending on what produce they bring in each morning, and it is always excellent quality. I love that you can’t view their menu in advance: their website only lists the cost and number of courses of the various prix fixe menus of the day (which are quite reasonable). You will only know what they are cooking that day once the waiter hands the menu to you in the dining room — and the surprise is worth the wait. The food is simple, beautiful and fresh. Website; Directions

Les Enfants du Marché

Marché des Enfants Rouges, 39 Rue de Bretagne 75003, Paris

If you visit Paris’s oldest food market, Marché des Enfants Rouge (a must-do if you have time), and suddenly feel hungry, try to squeeze in this place. And I mean squeeze. Les Enfants du Marché is very small, with everyone sitting on stools where they can find space. The menu, which is seafood-centric, is written on a blackboard, and the wine list is natural wine-forward and known only by the sommelier. It’s a new take on a classic French bistro, delivering high-end dishes, which like most places in Paris change seasonally, from a simple kitchen. Though for me, I usually order the mixed charcuterie and a recommended wine, for casually sipping, chatting and eating with friends and family. It’s homely, familiar and, even though it’s small and crowded, it’s comfortable too. Website; Directions

L’Astrance

32 Rue de Longchamp, 75016 Paris

After two years of closure due to works and lockdown, a new page in the history of L’Astrance began when it reopened at its new address in 2022. Chef Pascal Barbot, who has been at the helm for decades, is a goldsmith of the Parisian gastronomic scene. His cooking is primarily French, though he also draws inspiration from Japanese and other Asian cuisines and, as a real perfectionist, offers plates with a graphic and refined aesthetic. The creativity is incredible, from dishes that turn cheese into snow to many different manipulations of rice.

L’Astrance is rather upscale and best suited for a celebratory dinner, a birthday or a date you’d like to impress. It has a private dining area, as well as a very sophisticated wine cellar; both could be their own establishments, though they are tucked inside what is already a beautiful restaurant. It’s the little details here that I like most; the cutlery and plates have a more rustic feel, but the food is the real art, and it’s a beautiful contrast to look at. Website; Directions

Kaïto

71 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris

Located on the Left Bank, in the Odéon district, you’ll find Kaïto, with its sober interior, open kitchen in stainless steel and a marble counter. The food does all the talking here: top-of-the-range handrolls, made to order, from sushi master Taku, the former chef of the Michelin-starred restaurant Jin. Until quite recently there were no seats — Taku wanted to reproduce the atmosphere of Tokyo’s fish market bars, so diners could taste his recipes standing at the counter (though he’s recently added some bar stools so people can linger a while longer). A must on the menu: the essential Kaïto maki, with two different species of tuna, marinated squash, shiso and sesame. But leave room for the other Japanese specialities, such as sashimi, chirashis and tamagoyaki. My daughters and I love going here for a quick bite, and are never disappointed. Website; Directions

Ha Noi 1988

72 Quai des Orfèvres, 75001 Paris

This hut-like canteen serves excellent authentic and fairly priced Vietnamese cuisine, from vibrant and fresh vermicelli noodle salads to special banh bao. If I’m with friends, we usually order the dim sum to share. However, the main reason to eat here is for what’s probably the best pho outside of Vietnam, which I can’t stop thinking and talking about. You can build your bowl how you like, choosing spices, meats and vegetables. This has become one of my favourite places for a comforting and easy dinner. Website; Directions

Le Bar des Prés Cyril Lignac

25 Rue du Dragon, 75006 Paris

Le Bar des Prés, one of my favourite addresses where I often go with my daughters, offers a selection of sashimi, sushi and maki made to order. The best place to sit is at the bar, where I love watching the chefs prepare the raw fish — it is truly an art. There are also other dishes to share that are also of Japanese influence, such as the vegetable salad, with a lovely sesame-oil vinaigrette, nori and croutons, or the semi-cooked salmon with a passion-fruit vinaigrette and Nepalese pepper. The restaurant is above an excellent cocktail bar that does classic and signature drinks — I usually order one of their well-made martinis. Website; Directions

Hélène Darroze helms the three Michelin-starred Hélène Darroze at the Connaught in London, as well as Marsan (two stars), Jòia and Jòia Bun in Paris, and Hélène Darroze à Villa La Coste (one star) in Provence

What are your favourite Parisian restaurants? Tell us in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter

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