Chocolatier Pierre Marcolini’s gastronomical guide to Paris

This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Paris

Paris is a city that embodies many qualities. If we talk about my passion, which is gastronomy and pastry, Paris is excellence — and also demanding, challenging and competitive. It’s a city that is constantly changing, though it still reminds me of the early days in my career, when I took the train from Brussels and set down my bags to work in the French capital, in awe of that generation of pastry chefs. Today there is still talent and creativity everywhere. 

When I travel to the city from my base in Brussels, after catching up with my teams, I always make time to meet up with friends for a good glass of wine and an excellent meal. Below are some of my longtime favourite places to do so, along with some new discoveries.

Where to eat

One of my top places to eat, which still feels rather undiscovered, is Ogata Paris, a Japanese restaurant in the Marais. It is more than a restaurant, it’s also a place to relax amid breathtaking architecture. The building was designed by Shinichiro Ogata, inspired by Japanese construction in its functionality and modernity. This is also his approach to Japanese gastronomy. From the open kitchen, a kaiseki menu is served — a multi-course offering that highlights seasonality, quality ingredients and the chef’s technique. You don’t have to go to Tokyo when you have Ogata. 

Another address to visit is Table — Bruno Verjus (near the Gare de Lyon), which is renowned for fine dining but feels more like a brasserie. Chef Bruno is a fascinating character; he looks like he is straight off a 1950s film set, and reminds me of Michel Simon in the movie La Beauté du Diable. When you listen to him and read his book L’Art de Nourrir, he manages to inject poetry in everything he does. He started his career as a culinary journalist, travelling all over France and Europe, and one day decided to open his own establishment. He is extremely knowledgeable about produce and cuisine, which is what I find most appealing. Table is the place to go to eat prime ingredients — a beautiful scallop or a good fish. It hurts the wallet, but it’s worth it. 

For equally spectacular gastronomy, I also recommend La Halle aux Grains, helmed by chef Michael Bras and his son Sébastien, at the Bourse de Commerce. In the heart of a historic building, the father-and-son team have created a culinary destination in what once was a grain silo. Inspired by the site’s history, the two chefs have crafted an impressive fine-dining experience that highlights more than 50 different grains, treated in a multitude of ways alongside top-quality ingredients. This is the greatness of Paris: the reinvention of a place to transform it into a marvel.

Where to drink

There is something particularly special about Parisian wine bars. I often go to Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels, an elegant and cosy spot in the sixth arrondissement. The offering is exceptional, with 600 wines available to enjoy with its excellent small plates. 

Septime La Cave, a wine bar in the 11th arrondissement owned by Bertrand Grébaut, is another favourite. (It is the sibling of the excellent Septime restaurant around the corner.) I usually have more classic tastes when it comes to wine, but I like to be shaken up to try new things, and I always discover something special from a new generation of winemakers here.

My friend Gregory Marchand’s wine bar, Frenchie Bar à Vins in the second arrondissement, next door to his Frenchie restaurant, is another favourite hangout. Here you can find classics alongside the increasingly popular natural wines, best enjoyed with some of Gregory’s wonderful food. 

All these places have one thing in common: their warmth. Vibrant and convivial, each offers a bistro-like atmosphere where you can drink and eat well — an important feature of any Parisian adventure.

Join Pierre Marcolini at the FTWeekend Festival on Saturday September 2 for a bean-to-bar chocolate tasting. Click here to register now for passes.

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