Cold Noodles With Chile Oil and Citrusy Cabbage

Cold Noodles With Chile Oil and Citrusy Cabbage
Julia Gartland for The New York Times. Prop Stylist: Kristine Trevino.
Total Time
35 minutes
Rating
4(807)
Notes
Read community notes

While cold chile noodles are often seen as a side dish, here they act as the anchor of the entire meal. They are delicious on their own, and it would be hard to go wrong with any pairing. A salad of fresh herbs (cilantro, dill, mint, parsley) topped by a creamy tahini dressing is a good place to start. From there, feel free to include a mess of citrusy cabbage and whatever blanched, roasted or raw vegetables you may have on hand for texture. While these suggestions are optional (it doesn't have to be vegetarian: shredded rotisserie chicken or last night's pork chop would also be welcome), seek out saucy, herby, crunchy, tangy and spicy ingredients to liven up an already lively bowl of noodles.

Featured in: How to Eat in 2019

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Ingredients

Yield:4 to 8 servings

    For the Noodles

    • ½cup canola or grapeseed oil
    • 1tablespoon fennel seed
    • 1tablespoon red-pepper flakes
    • 2garlic cloves, very finely chopped
    • 1tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns (optional)
    • 1star anise (optional)
    • 1pound udon, soba or rice noodles, or spaghetti
    • 2tablespoons rice wine vinegar, or fresh lemon or lime juice
    • Kosher salt and ground pepper

    For the Citrusy Cabbage (optional)

    • ½head red cabbage, very thinly sliced
    • Kosher salt and ground pepper
    • ¼cup fresh lemon or lime juice, or both
    • 1tablespoon finely grated lemon or lime zest, or both
    • 2tablespoons olive oil

    For the Herby Tahini Sauce (optional)

    • cup tahini
    • 1garlic clove, finely grated
    • 2tablespoons fresh lemon or lime juice
    • 1tablespoon sesame oil
    • 1cup parsley or cilantro, or both, tender leaves and stems, very finely chopped
    • Kosher salt and ground pepper

    For the Lemony Scallions (optional)

    • 1bunch scallions, very thinly sliced
    • ¼cup olive oil
    • 2tablespoons fresh lemon or lime juice
    • 1tablespoon finely grated lemon or lime zest
    • 1tablespoon soy sauce
    • Kosher salt and ground pepper
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

718 calories; 43 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 17 grams monounsaturated fat; 19 grams polyunsaturated fat; 73 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams dietary fiber; 6 grams sugars; 15 grams protein; 601 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat oil, fennel seed, pepper flakes, garlic, Sichuan peppercorns and star anise (if using) in a small pot over the lowest heat possible. Cook, swirling occasionally, until you start to hear and see the garlic and spices frizzle and toast in the oil, 5 to 8 minutes. (Every stove is different and sometimes the low isn’t as low as we’d like, so keep an eye on things; it may take less time.) Keep cooking at the lowest heat setting until the spices are toasted and the garlic is golden brown, another 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

  2. Step 2

    Meanwhile, cook noodles in a large pot of salted water until al dente. Drain and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. (If not using right away, spread onto a rimmed baking sheet and toss with a little canola oil to prevent sticking.)

  3. Step 3

    If serving the citrusy cabbage, place cabbage in a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Add citrus juice and zest, tossing to coat. Let sit a few minutes to soften. Drizzle with olive oil before serving.

  4. Step 4

    If serving the tahini sauce, whisk tahini, garlic, lemon juice, sesame oil and ¼ cup water in a small bowl until a creamy dressing forms. (Tahini thickness varies greatly from brand to brand; if you need more water to achieve a smooth, creamy dressing, add it by the teaspoonful until you get the desired texture.) Add herbs and season with salt, pepper and more lemon juice, if desired. Alternatively, place all ingredients and ¼ cup water in the bowl of a food processor and process until a smooth, creamy dressing forms.

  5. Step 5

    If serving the lemony scallions, combine scallions, olive oil, lemon juice, lemon zest and soy sauce in a small bowl; season with salt and pepper and let sit for at least 5 minutes before serving.

  6. Step 6

    When ready to eat, toss noodles with vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Spoon chile oil over the noodles, tossing to coat; keep adding the oil until your noodles are evenly coated. (Keep in mind you have other sauces for the noodles, so you’re just looking for them to be coated and sufficiently spicy.) Serve any additional chile oil alongside for personal spooning, with the cabbage and other sauces if you like. See Tip for adding more spicy things and blanched or roasted vegetables.

Tip
  • Here are a few other things to set out to add more to the meal. More spicy things: Jarred pickled chiles, pickled jalapeños, Calabrian chiles — anything of the sort that will (lightly) set your mouth on fire are welcomed here. Blanched or roasted vegetables with garlic: Toss blanched or roasted vegetables like broccoli, cauliflower or carrots with a bit of finely chopped raw garlic and a squeeze of lemon or splash of vinegar. This is a perfect use for any leftover vegetables in the fridge. Greenery: A plate of springy herbs, such as parsley, cilantro, dill or mint (or both) to nibble on between bites of noodles, or a pile of sautéed greens like spinach, kale, Swiss chard or mustard greens to tangle into the noodles. Toasted seeds or nuts: Toast sesame seeds, chopped peanuts or almonds in a dry skillet until golden brown and toss with a little oil and salt; sprinkle over everything.

Ratings

4 out of 5
807 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

Sounds wonderful. But let's get real. With about 20 ingredients to assemble, measure (or approximate), and process for the "anchor," this hardly seems like a dish that's going to get us out of the kitchen. And those "few other things to set out" need to be warmed, chopped or toasted. Note also, lemon or lime juice and zest are used in each step of the recipe. The recipe or a head note should state the total amount needed so that one doesn't have to juice citrus repeatedly.

I’m not sure how many people you had helping you, but including prep this recipe took me 2 hours.

In defense of this recipe, and yes, it took me 35 mins. Folks need to know that it is best made as a "clean the fridge" meal. Use the leftover udon noodles you made for ramen from a previous meal. Add in the pre-cooked veggie or chicken from the night before. And then be okay that you are spending your time creating sauces and condiments that bring it all together.

Made this tonite. Rave reviews. Took me a couple of hours to get it all together, but maybe I am just slow. I didn’t put the full amount of pepper flakes into the spiced oil because there are a few children in our family. A couple of us added chile oil (not the spiced oil in step one)to our own serving to amp up the heat. The prep did create a lot of dishes to wash, but that’s my husband’s job. As a matter of fact, I can hear him sighing very loudly as I write this.!

I love this. No, it was not simple to put together stepwise, but it was not time-consuming. I timed myself and it took one hour (not rushing). I thought the rich noodles with the sharp crunchy cabbage and the salty scallions was great. I added bok choy that had been sautéed with some garlic to my noodles. I’ll make this again

To everyone who commented on the chile oil -- yes, we all know it's a condiment that is purchased in the store. Thank you. If you read the recipe, however, no "chile oil" is mentioned, neither in the list of ingredients nor in the cooking steps. Also, in step 1, we heat one-half cup of oil with a number of fragrant and spicy items, including Sichuan peppercorns and pepper flakes. Hence, chile oil. Unless you want to just throw it away.

MollyT: I did strain the seeds from my chile oil because the garlic was getting too brown and I was worried about it tainting the oil. The strained oil is still very flavorful. I'll miss the crunch of the seeds, though. Other comments: 1) when it says "thinly sliced" cabbage, the thinner the better. 2) Don't skip the lemony scallions. They add a lot.

This did take quite a while to prepare but it was totally worth it. I added some shredded chicken that I had left over—delicious. And the kicker? It was even better for lunch the next day. I will make this again.

When the recipe mentions "chile oil" I assume it refers to the oil that was used to toast the fennel, garlic, star anise, and Sichuan peppercorns in earlier. Strain out the garlic and spices, or leave them in?

Such a brilliant, relieving approach to hoasting! I used sesame oil instead of olive on the cabbage. It has a more bold flavor, especially for those who skip the tahini sauce.

This is extremely delicious, but certainly not a quick meal. I did have some leftover lemony cabbage and spicy fried chicken to add, but used about every pot and bowl in my house to make the rest of the meal. Everything is simple to make, but didn't save me any time in the kitchen. Superbly delicious and flavorful, however.

I used Lang Zhou noodles I picked up in the fresh noodle aisle at JMart in Flushing and they were sublime. This is very easy to make, but too time consuming for a regular weeknight. Thankfully, you don't need to make it all. Make the noodles and the scallions and you'll be set. If you have another 10 minutes, make the tahini sauce and blanche some broccoli. The cabbage was good, but not necessary. The noodles are great on day 2.

The noodles are good but watch out--if you use all of the seasoned chilli oil on them they will be plenty spicy!

Use vegetable noodles and stead of flour noodles

Loved. Skipped Szechuan pepper, star anise, zests (will try another time). Made the cabbage first so it had some time to release in the vinegar + citrus. Then set chicken breasts to poach (started out per Melissa Clark's recent recipe; finished on the stove). Boiled water. Blanched baby broccoli, removed, brought back to boil, put in noodles. Made scallions and tahini sauce while noodles cooked. Whole process took somewhere between 40 min and an hour. Didn't have dish issue others mentioned.

This recipe is basically fusion Dandan Noodles, and I look forward to making it properly. Quick pantry version since I salivated over this recipe instead of going to the store: toast sichuan peppercorns and five-spice powder (3/5 match for the list of spices) in sesame oil, and then cook noodles in the same pot. Slice last sad scallion and mix the spiced sesame oil with peanut butter, black bean sauce, and a dash of soy sauce and black vinegar. Top with lemon juice - totally delicious.

This is surprisingly tasty! I’d say probably don’t skip any of the optional components of this because the chili oil works so nicely with the tahini sauce and I think that’s really the only reason this was so tasty. Also it did not take nearly as long as people are saying it took to prep. Maybe 45 mins all-in. I used sticky rice for the leftovers as I didn’t have much by way of noodles and it was great!

Made this last night with soba noodles. Was great. Had a little bit of an issue with time while making it, so skipped the chili oil and just used jarred chili crunch on the noodles - will make the oil next time! Sauteed broccolini and spinach in a wok with sesame oil and served that in addition to the cabbage, scallions and tahini sauce. Perfect for a warm LA evening.

I made this on a Sunday for weekday lunches and it worked like a charm. Kept well, tasted great warmed in the breakroom microwave or cold, and lasted all week. I did add in some sauteed spinach for extra veggie content.

1/2 tsp of red pepper

So, yeah... this took a while to cook, even with my husband helping me, but to me, it's worth every minute. Honestly, we make it twice a week and almost always serve it when we have company. For me, this is a go-to, despite the work.

More work than I anticipated, but was absolutely worth it. Honestly, I can hardly wait to make it again. Delicious.

All the sauces were delicious and can easily be used with other things so they’re good to remember. We weren’t wild about the cabbage so maybe skip that for tofu which would appreciate the sauces more.

A lot of moving parts to this recipe...but it was quite delicious! I'd make it again. However the 35 minute cooking estimate is way off! Try an hour for someone pretty quick in the kitchen.

Too many ingredients for a side dish folks. The prepping alone is too much. Slice raw white cabbage Marinate in 1 Cup Apple Cider Vinegar 1/2 Cup water 3 Tsp. Salt I tablespoon white sugar 1 Cup carrot batons Let stand refrigerated Enjoy

NTT- the cold noodle recipe by Alison Roman

I haven't prepared the oil as suggested here, so I can't compare the results, but using the method in the NYTC dan dan noodle recipe, I measured the aromatics into a Pyrex, then heated the oil separately, poured it over, let the spices and garlic do their delightful sizzle and bubble, then let it sit to infuse and cool and strained it. Seems a far less stressful way to do it (no hovering), also less chance for ruining the whole batch by allowing the stuff to burn if momentarily distracted.

came across this looking for something to do with leftover soba noodles and radish from last night's memil guksu — this was perfect for that application. for those looking to save time, i forewent the tahini sauce & added a softboiled egg to replace the protein. absolutely delicious & (working from leftovers) i went from opening the fridge to eating in about 15 minutes. also add MSG to your chili oils — you'll thank yourself!

Made this for a group the other night and everyone loved it. It was fun for everyone to decide what they liked best and assemble accordingly. Added some charred brocolini and the herby salad and it fed everyone with lots of leftovers. Big fan! Super tasty!

We love this recipe - it’s a staple in our house. A couple tips to speed things up. 1) We make a big batch of chili oil each year using the woks of life recipe. It’s delicious and no need to make a small batch each time. 2) Blend all the ingredients for lemony scallions and tahini sauce in a food processor or stick blender. All of the flavors get combined anyway and it’s much easier to just throw things in and blend.

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