T’s Feb. 23 Women’s Fashion Issue

Highlights

  1. The Many Lives of Marc Jacobs

    Through the fashion designer’s various identities and struggles, two things have remained consistent: his ability to predict a cultural moment and the pure emotion of his work.

     By

    A portrait of Marc Jacobs, taken for T, on set at the Sun and Surf Beach Club on Long Island.
    CreditRoe Ethridge
  2. When Did Gluttony Become So Glamorous?

    Over-the-top banquets have long been viewed as harbingers of impending doom. Their recent resurgence on the fashion circuit feels like a cheeky comment on the times.

     By

    A meal inspired by the Surrealist provocateur Salvador Dalí’s 1973 French cookbook, “Les Dîners de Gala,” featuring, from left, an artichoke-and-thai-chili totem rising from an antique vase full of split peas and lentils; a tower of cooked lobsters, langoustines and kale; aspic studded with olives, gooseberries and petits poivrons; and a pastry peacock (in lieu of taxidermy) alongside a bowl of grapes. (<a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2020/02/21/t-magazine/fashion-banquet-food-waste.html">Learn what happens</a> to the food — and flowers — left over from extravagant fetes.)
    CreditPhoto by Sharon Core. Food styling by Young Gun Lee. Prop styling by Maria Santana
  3. In Fashion

    Spring’s Riotously Colorful Dresses

    This season’s most vibrant statement pieces leave room for movement — and don’t skimp on texture or pattern, either.

     By Johnny Dufort and

    <strong>Fendi</strong> dress, $4,200, <a href="https://www.fendi.com/us">fendi.com</a>. Vintage Christian Dior sunglasses, $775, <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/vintagenmode">etsy.com/shop/vintagenmode</a>. <strong>Jil Sander</strong> shoes, $1,268.
    CreditPhoto by Johnny Dufort. Styled by Jane How
  4. By Design

    Louis Armstrong, the King of Queens

    The jazz musician’s impeccably maintained home in a modest New York City neighborhood is a testament to his — and midcentury design’s — legacy.

     By

    The reel-to-reel tape machine in Armstrong’s den.
    CreditChris Mottalini
  1. The Rise of Palestinian Food

    Cookbook authors and chefs are arguing for their place at the table — to chronicle recipes, safeguard ingredients and assert a sense of humanity.

     By

    Ingredients often found in Palestinian cuisine include, clockwise from top, watermelon, young squab, dried almonds in their shells, pickled grape leaves and maftoul (Palestinian couscous).
    CreditPhoto by Patricia Heal. Food styling by Young Gun Lee. Prop styling by Victoria Petro-Conroy
    Food Matters
  2. A Sculptor of the Female Gaze

    Katharina Fritsch shows familiar objects as they might appear in a dream, bringing the subliminal to light.

     By

    More unfinished sculptures in Fritsch’s studio, including one of her signature roosters. She works in polyester and fiberglass with acrylic paint or industrial lacquer.
    CreditBernhard Fuchs
  3. Why Tales of Female Trios Are Newly Relevant

    In literature and pop culture, women often come in threes, deriving power from solidarity even as they work to forge their own paths.

     By

    To accompany this essay, T commissioned a pair of original works by female artists. Here, the oil portrait “Me, Em and Nat” (2020) that the London-based artist Chantal Joffe painted of her and her sisters as children in the 1970s.
    CreditChantal Joffe's “Me, Em and Nat” (2020), Oil on board © Chantal Joffe, Courtesy of the artist and Victoria Miro
  4. Spring’s Most Shapely Silhouettes

    A black-and-white color palette allows dramatic forms — and the dramatic landscape of the English countryside — to flourish.

     By Tom Johnson and

    <strong>Dilara Findikoglu</strong> top, $992, <a href="http://dilarafindikoglu.com/">dilarafindikoglu.com</a>. <strong>Tank Air</strong> bodysuit (worn underneath), $195, <a href="https://tankairstudio.com/">tankairstudio.com</a>. <strong>Prada</strong> hat, $850, <a href="https://www.prada.com/us/en.html">prada.com</a>. Stylist’s own gloves.
    CreditPhoto by Tom Johnson. Styled by Malina Joseph Gilchrist
    In Fashion
  5. How Dorothea Lange Defined the Role of the Modern Photojournalist

    She created one of the most enduring images of the 20th century, but she also created a new model for her discipline.

     By

    The Library of Congress file card for Dorothea Lange’s 1936 photograph “Migrant Mother,” by far the artist’s most famous image.
    CreditDorothea Lange’s “Destitute peapickers in California; a 32 year old mother of seven children. February 1936 [sic],” Library of Congress file card, circa 1936. Farm Security Administration–Office of War Information Collection, Library of Congress, Washington, D.C.
    Notes on the Culture

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  7. Letter from the editor

    T’s Spring Women’s Fashion Issue: The Test

    The most important thing is not that you were first to accomplish something, but that you did so on your own terms, with as few compromises as possible.

    By Hanya Yanagihara

     
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  10. Notes on the Culture

    The New Shape of Fashion

    On the runways, dramatic silhouettes are both a comment on and an antidote to the world around them.

    By Meara Sharma

     
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