T’s Sept. 8 Men’s Fashion Issue

Highlights

‘Giovanni’s Room’ Revisited
James Baldwin’s 1956 novel is a layered exploration of queer desire — and of the writer’s own sense of self.
By Hilton AlsJohn Edmonds and Carlos Nazario
CreditPhoto by John Edmonds. Styled by Carlos Nazario
The Strange and Beautiful Universe of Walter Van Beirendonck
For more than three decades, the Belgian designer has been offering gleefully irreverent alternatives to the staid men’s wear of old.
By Thessaly La Force
CreditMark Peckmezian
In Dublin, a Home Filled With Mementos From a Photographer’s Travels
Simon Watson has spent decades collecting antiques and objects from around the world — all of which now coexist in improbable harmony at his family’s rowhouse.
By Gaby Wood
CreditSimon Watson
The Transformative, Talismanic Power of Feathers
A symbol of both flight and fancy, plumes have been the object of obsession — and adornment — for centuries.
By Ligaya Mishan
CreditPhoto by Laurence Ellis. Styled by Haidee Findlay-Levin

Classic Fall Fashion Gets an Edge
Punk rock signatures — spikes, leather, Teddy boy touches — are remade with flashes of fur and lacquer red.
By Paolo Roversi and Jacob K
CreditPhotograph by Paolo Roversi. Styled by Jacob K
Utopia, Abandoned
The Italian town Ivrea was once a model for workers’ rights and progressive design. Now, it’s both a cautionary tale and evidence of a grand experiment in making labor humane.
By Nikil Saval
CreditNick Ballón
The Unstoppable Rise of the Zaddy
Youth will always have a place in fashion, but lately, men of a certain age rule the runway.
By Nick Haramis
CreditFrom left: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images; Estrop/Getty Images; Alessandro Viero/Gorunway (2); Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Notes on the Culture
The Comedians Challenging Stereotypes About Asian-American Masculinity
A new generation that includes Joel Kim Booster and Bowen Yang is redefining old notions — while reminding us how much further the culture has to go.
By Thessaly La Force
CreditMasami Teraoka, "New Wave Series/Christine at Hanauma Bay," 1992.
Social Studies
T’s Fall Men’s Fashion Issue: Becoming a Man
The definitions of maleness are slowly, creakingly, expanding: or, for the braver among us, being discarded altogether.
By Hanya Yanagihara
CreditCourtesy of John Edmonds
Letter from the Editor

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Profile in Style
Brunello Cucinelli, Renaissance Man
The designer, best known for what he calls “sportivo chic,” has maintained roots in his native Italy, improving and restoring the town where his brand is based.
By Lindsay Talbot
Wanderlust
The City Poised to Become Europe’s Next Affordable Creative Haven
In the Albanian capital of Tirana, the country’s strange history and bright future collide.
By Alexander Lobrano
In Studio
The Sculptor Who Reconceives Classical Myths
Yoko Kubrick’s marble works reference familiar tales while subverting the traditions that have defined her discipline.
By Nick Marino
By Design
The 18th-Century Paris Apartment That Elegantly Blends Past and Future
Studio KO reimagines a Place des Victoires pied-à-terre as a minimalist sanctuary — out of time, yet completely contemporary.
By Nancy Hass
Fall’s Finely Tailored Overcoats
This season, jackets in wool, camel and calfskin lend a sharp edge to everything from suits to sportswear.
By Ben Grieme and Haidee Findlay-Levin
Food Matters
The New Generation of Chefs Pushing Japanese Food in Unexpected Directions
With their fresh, freewheeling interpretations, these restaurants are challenging long-held ideas about what authenticity actually means.
By Ligaya Mishan
Notes on the Culture
Jell-O as Art, Apocalypse-Ready Clothing and More
T’s roundup of people, places and things to know now.
Of a Kind: Antonio and Carla Sersale’s Suzanis
The hotelier’s love affair with the tapestries began when he was a teenager. Here, he goes through a few highlights from his collection.
In Fashion
The Season’s Coziest, Brightly Colored Knits
Grunge-inspired sweaters in colorful stripes and patchwork patterns capture fall’s playful mood.
By Clara Balzary and Sasha Kelly
A Living Collection in Ireland
After spending decades roaming the world, the photographer Simon Watson returned to Dublin, filling his house with all manner of things he’d found on his travels.