T’s May 19 Travel Issue

Highlights

In Search of Ancient Morocco
South of Marrakesh, the Draa Valley still exerts an indefinable pull, retaining traces of its now almost-vanished Berber kingdom.
By Aatish Taseer
CreditRichard Mosse
A Journey Into Greece’s Land of a Thousand Stories
One writer chronicles his voyage to the island of Ithaca, where Odysseus was once reputedly king.
By Pico Iyer
CreditAlex Majoli
A Bid to Maintain One of the World’s Oldest Culinary Traditions
For the ever dwindling Parsi community of western India, food is both pleasure and heritage — and a secret language in danger of dying out.
By Ligaya Mishan
CreditAnthony Cotsifas
Wanderlust
In Southeastern Sicily, Old World Architecture Meets Stunning Beaches
The Val di Noto region — which includes the towns of Ragusa, Modica and Noto — is bustling anew.
By Kate Maxwell
CreditDiego Mayon

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Of a Kind: John Derian’s Miniature Homes
The home-goods designer picked up the first one 25 years ago, at the Chelsea flea market in Manhattan.
Letter from the Editor
T’s Travel Issue: The Survivors
The countries we visited have seen years — centuries — of unimaginable wealth and power, and, equally, centuries of sorrow, despair, warfare and subjugation.
By Hanya Yanagihara
Profile in Style
A Designer Whose Ideal Woman Is PJ Harvey
Sander Lak, the creative director of Sies Marjan, shares his many inspirations with T.
By Lindsay Talbot
Watch Report
For Spring, Six New Watches With Blue Dials
The season’s most stylish timepieces — whether refined or sporty — come in navy, midnight and sapphire.
Notes on the Culture
At Restaurants, Thank You for Not Sharing
After a decade of treating every plate like a pie, individual dishes are making a welcome comeback.
By Kurt Soller
Rediscoveries
A Villa Built During Milan’s Fascist Period Finds a Second Life
Born in the troubling Italian era, one classic Piero Portaluppi home has reopened as a contemporary art gallery.
By Nancy Hass
The Quandary of Myanmar: Will Starving the Country of Visitors Make Things Better?
The nation’s natural beauty has for the last two centuries been at odds with a brutal history and violent present.
By Rafia Zakaria
In Fashion: Layers on Layers
Pairing dresses with pants and piling coats over jackets, the 2019 pre-fall collections explore the power of unexpected juxtapositions.
Market Report
10 Fresh Floral Accessories for Spring
Whether printed, stitched or painted, blooms abound on the season’s boots and handbags.
Food Matters
How Sourness Has Come to Dominate Our Dining Habits, and Our Discourse
From candy to kombucha to our national mood, acidity is everywhere.
By Ligaya Mishan