Rhapsody in pink: five places to see the full splendour of Tokyo’s sakura season
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
This article is part of a guide to Tokyo from FT Globetrotter
At this time of the year, my son and I have a favourite routine to mark the arrival of spring. Each day, on our way to the nearest train station, we pass by a somei-yoshino cherry tree and monitor the growth of the buds. Once the pink florets are visible, we know that the hanami season (the practice of viewing of cherry blossoms, or sakura, in full bloom) is just around the corner.
Beyond the buds, the coming of spring is felt everywhere across Tokyo as the entire city is coloured in pale pink. Convenience stores have filled their shelves with sakura-flavoured sweets and drinks. In February, Starbucks rolled out its Sakura Fuwari Berry Frappuccino. For art class at day care, my son has made a paper model of the seasonal delicacy sakura-mochi (sweet dumplings wrapped in fresh green leaves from the cherry trees).
In Japan, spring marks not only the end of winter but also the start of the school year and the beginning of the new financial year, when new recruits join companies. Rituals to celebrate the ephemeral beauty of cherry blossoms go back more than 1,000 years, and even the pandemic is unlikely to stop people from coming out to view the five-petalled flowers.
Of course, for a second year in a row, there will be Covid-19 restrictions. That means no eating snacks and drinking beer on “leisure sheets” (picnic mats) among large crowds. With the government extending the state of emergency in Tokyo until March 21, certain sections of hugely popular public parks such as Ueno Park, Yoyogi Park and Inokashira Park have been cordoned off with nets to prevent hanami parties from taking place. Other traditional Japanese gardens with beautiful cherry trees such as Rikugien and Shinjuku Gyoen are temporarily closed. Lanterns to light up the petals have also been removed to encourage people to go home in the evenings.
But fortunately, cherry blossoms are everywhere in Tokyo and across the country. You don’t need to gather in groups to enjoy hanami. Regardless of the recommendations I make below, everyone will have his or her personal favourite spot, whether it’s in a nearby park, school or in random places where you would least expect to find a cherry tree. So if you are in town during this time of the year, just go out for a walk and you will be sure to find your own hanami oasis without venturing too far.
Chidorigafuchi Moat
Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-8111
Good for: taking a long walk to enjoy both cherry blossoms and historical sites
Not so good for: drinking and eating on picnic blankets (there are not many places to sit down)
FYI: rental boats will not be available until the state of emergency is lifted
Starting at Kudanshita Station, this is a lovely walk around the moat of the old Edo Castle along the west side of the Imperial Palace, where many of the 260 cherry trees were planted in the postwar period. Pre-Covid, I would meet up with friends after work to see the petals illuminated and head for the street-food stands. But even without the illumination and the boat rides, the stroll around the Imperial Palace and the cherry blossoms along the path are breathtakingly beautiful. Despite the popularity of the spot, it does not feel too crowded, as there are few places to sit down for a picnic.
Once you reach the Tokyo Station area, it is also worth checking out the cherry trees at the gardens in the east side of the palace. In the neighbourhood there is also Hibiya Park, a rich green space in the heart of the business district that is also a pleasant sakura viewing spot.
Meguro River
Good for: great photos of cherry blossoms floating above the river
Not so good for: those who want to avoid crowds
FYI: Nakameguro is a gourmet destination, so do explore its restaurants, cafés and izakayas (pubs) in addition to viewing flowers
The sakura viewing along the Meguro is where the intrusion of coronavirus is most poignantly felt. In normal times, the early morning wait and fierce competition to secure the perfect hanami spot, the huge crowds that pack the narrow streets, the beer and food stalls, and the bright paper lanterns to illuminate the petals in the evenings are all part of the quintessential experience to celebrate the arrival of spring. And the effort does pay off the moment you see the cherry blossoms bursting into bloom to form a corridor of pale pink clouds above the river. But for the second year, the fun and festivities will be restrained — though you can still view the 800 cherry trees dotting the Meguro, which are expected to reach full bloom on March 27.
Aoyama Cemetery
2-32-2 Minami-aoyama, Minato-Ku, Tokyo 107-0062
Good for: quiet viewing of cherry blossoms
Not so good for: those who don’t feel comfortable visiting a graveyard
FYI: If you are in the neighbourhood, it’s worth viewing the cherry blossoms in the Roppongi district too
It may seem like an odd choice to choose a graveyard for viewing cherry blossoms but the serene atmosphere perfectly encapsulates the evanescence of sakura. Located within a short walking distance from Nogizaka Station and open since 1874, Aoyama Cemetery is Japan’s oldest public graveyard and the burial site of many historical and cultural figures, including foreigners such as Italian artist Edoardo Chiossone and British diplomat Hugh Fraser. It is also where the famously loyal Akita dog, Hachiko, rests with his beloved master, Professor Hidesaburo Ueno. There are hundreds of cherry trees planted alongside the road that runs through the cemetery, creating a magnificent arch of pale pink flowers. Not surprisingly, hanami parties were banned in the area long before Covid-19, so you can enjoy a distinctly quiet and peaceful stroll in central Tokyo.
Sumida River
Good for: getting a taste of old Tokyo
Not so good for: fine dining
FYI: along the way, you can explore tourist spots such as the Tokyo Skytree tower and the Sensoji Buddhist temple in the Asakusa district
Yes, I am recommending another river-viewing spot, but the experience here is vastly different from the above. The Sumida is a long stretch of water that runs from the north of Tokyo to the eastern part of the city in the Shitamachi (“Low City”) area, which was home to merchants, artisans and entertainers during the Edo period from 1603 to 1867. It is one of the oldest hanami spots and you can have some fun exploring and creating your own flower-viewing course. The most popular destination is Asakusa — a funky blend of historical temples and shrines with lovely stalls, beautiful kitchenware and local food — and a stroll along the river through the hundreds of cherry trees planted inside Sumida Park. Another alternative is taking a traditional yakata boat (which remain in service) to view the cherry blossoms hanging over and floating on the river.
Kinuta Park
1-1 Kinutakoen, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 157-0075
Good for: large open space and exercise
Not so good for: visiting without a car
FYI: there’s a good art museum inside the park if you have time
If you want to venture out of downtown Tokyo, I recommend Kinuta for a family outing. The nearest station is about a 20-minute walk away, so you might need to take a bus or car to get there, but the drive is not too far from Shibuya. Formerly a golf course, the park is enormous (which makes for comfortable social distancing), with more than 800 cherry trees — including a gigantic somei-yoshino with drooping branches. In addition to flower viewing, there is also a nice cycling course if, like me, your body needs some exercise following a year of homeworking.
Recommendations for a hanami picnic
Food
Rice balls of different variety
Sandwiches
Yakitori (grilled chicken) or grilled vegetables on bamboo skewers
Snacks and seasonal sweets
Kaki no tane (rice crackers with roasted peanuts)
Sakura mochi (sweet dumplings wrapped in fresh green leaves from the cherry trees)
Three colour dango dumplings
Drinks
Spring edition local beer with sakura-themed cans
Moët & Chandon pink champagne
Lemon Chu-Hi (traditionally made from shochu, sparkling water and flavouring)
Etiquette advice
Do not touch the cherry trees
Do not occupy too much space with the picnic blanket
Do not place the picnic blanket right below a cherry tree
Do not leave any rubbish
Have fun — but try not to get too drunk and noisy
Where are your favourite spots in Tokyo to see the sakura? Tell us in the comments below
For more pieces like this visit ft.com/globetrotter or read our guide to the Japanese capital, Tokyo with the FT
Follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter
Comments