Food & Drinks

The Best Restaurant in the UK Grows Mushrooms in a Closet

The Ledbury takes the crown back to London. The No. 1 spot had previously been in Wales, at Ynyshir.

Ledbury chefs, from left: Harry Corder; Tom Spencely; owner Brett Graham; and April Lily Partridge.

Photographer: Justin De Souza

For two years, Wales held bragging rights as home to the best restaurant in the UK, Ynishir.

Now the title has shifted to London, England: The Ledbury from Australian-born chef Brett Graham is now the country’s No. 1 restaurant according to the UK’s National Restaurant Awards. The unconventional, three Michelin star Notting Hill dining room, which sent shock waves around the food world when it announced that it might not reopen as a result of the pandemic, has become known for a new feature in its dining room: A glass-walled closet devoted to growing mushrooms such as lion’s mane. The £225 dinner time tasting menu features them in a dish called Mushrooms from the Cabinet with wild garlic and buckwheat koji, along with courses like wild venison with cherry and licorice.