Tastes Fine, But The Head's A Bit Sandy

OSTRICH FOR THANKSGIVING? That's the hope of many American ostrich farmers, who are busily promoting the 7-foot, 300-pound bird as perfect next to the pumpkin pie and sweet potatoes. Now, ostriches are used mainly for their feathers. The American Ostrich Assn. pushes the bird's health appeal: Its cholesterol count is even lower than turkey and chicken. And no, it doesn't taste like chicken. More like beef.

Thus far, ostrich can be found in only about three dozen restaurants nationwide. Wayne Bolan, head of TOPS, a Burleson (Tex.) ostrich-meat supplier, says the demand exists, but the supply is too low. Result: Ostrich meat costs a lot, more than $20 per pound.