The wall of shelves at Dahlia holds 50 different tequilas, and most people might assume at least a few taste the same.
Not so, says Rob Grays, the managing partner of the tequila and mezcal bar at 14th and Mission streets. Even though the Mexican liquor is all distilled from the piña (heart) of the blue agave plant, the nuances of the flavor can vary wildly from bottle to bottle.
“Some of them are distilled in oak barrels. Some of them are in whiskey barrels. Some of them are in steel barrels,” he said during a recent conversation, seated on a black leather couch at the corner of the bar. “So, that definitely changes the taste of them.”
His personal favorite is Avion 44, a tequila infused with a sweet, ripe, fruity flavor profile that’s crafted in the highlands of Jesus Maria, a town in Jalisco, Mexico, the home state of tequila.
“Especially being behind a bar this long, if I’m going to drink it, I’ve got to like it,” said Grays, who is 40, noting that he likes to savor his drinks. After all, he had already been in the nightlife industry for 20 years before he bought Dahlia in 2022. “I don’t just take shots. I’m too grown for that.”
Born and raised in East Palo Alto, Grays started out as a server and bartender at restaurants before he switched to bartending at clubs such as City Nights at Third and Harrison streets, and Icon Ultra Lounge at Eighth and Folsom streets. He eventually branched out into organizing events and parties for Rouge Night Club on Polk Street. For 20 years, this has been his life — bartending, managing clubs, and throwing events.
He finally bought the Dahlia space on his 39th birthday, in September 2022, with three business partners; he thinks of it as a gift for himself. In his mind, Dahlia is not merely a space for people to dance, sweat, and drink.
“I mean, we’re in the Mission. How many liquor stores are there?” Grays said with a chuckle. “If you want to get drunk, there’s so many easy ways to do it — and cheaper.”
After two decades in drinks, Grays wants Dahlia to be a versatile place for the community. The bar at 1799 Mission St. is full of red and black and skeleton decorations, and is divided into three spaces: A main bar and lounge area, an inner event lounge called the Tulum Room, and a subterranean dance floor called the Champagne Room. Every space has its own signature cocktails and can be rented out for private events.
In addition to its vast tequila selection, Dahlia offers about 30 types of mezcal, which can be distilled from any type of agave — often roasted, to create a smoky flavor profile. (Grays said he’s less of a fan of mezcal than of tequila.)
No matter the spirit, Grays said he always wants to add a twist to Dahlia’s drinks, setting them apart from those at other bars.
Take his Hennessy sidecar, for example, which is a classic cocktail using Hennessy cognac, orange liqueur. and fresh lemon or lime juice: Grays makes it with fig honey syrup and rosemary.
“It kind of ignites the fig when you’re tasting it,” Grays said. “So you’re like, ‘Oh, hold on, what’s that taste?'”
As for the bar’s name: Dahlia is the city flower of San Francisco, which blossoms in all colors except for blue. To Grays, this symbolizes the city’s spirit — inclusive and welcoming to people from all walks of life.
“For me, obviously, [I’m a] Black man in the middle of the Mission owning the tequila mezcal bar,” Grays said, adding that he has not seen a lot of Black-owned or operated bars in the city. “It shows how diverse this world is right now.”
Great profile. It actually made me want to check out Dahlia and their drinks. Thanks!