Hand-Pulled Noodles

Updated Feb. 15, 2024

Hand-Pulled Noodles
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
About 4 hours 30 minutes
Prep Time
5 minutes
Cook Time
1 hour, plus 3 hours 20 minutes’ resting
Rating
4(190)
Notes
Read community notes

The pleasantly chewy texture of these long Chinese noodles is part of the allure, as is the artful practice of delicately pulling the fresh wheat dough to create the strands. Hand-pulling noodles, or la mian, is a technique that has been passed from generation to generation, and the results cannot be replicated with a machine. With just bread flour, water and salt, a streamlined recipe, and a little patience, you really can make these fresh noodles at home. Using a high-gluten flour like bread flour, and allowing an ample amount of rest time, will make the dough easier to pull. Once cooked, these springy noodles can be served in a simple broth accompanied by fresh vegetables and topped with a tongue tingling chile crisp.

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings
  • cups/374 grams bread flour
  • ¾teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), plus more for the pot
  • Canola or vegetable oil, for brushing and drizzling
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

349 calories; 3 grams fat; 0 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 1 gram monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 68 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 0 grams sugars; 11 grams protein; 220 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In a large bowl, whisk together the flour and ¾ teaspoon salt. Drizzle in 1 cup room temperature water, stirring with a rubber spatula until absorbed. (The dough will be very dry and shaggy.) Turn the mixture onto a clean surface and knead until the dough is smooth, 10 to 15 minutes. (Alternatively, knead the dough in a stand mixer, fitted with the dough hook, on medium speed until smooth, 5 to 7 minutes.)

  2. Step 2

    Lay a 12-inch-long piece of plastic wrap on the work surface and brush it lightly with oil. Transfer the dough to the plastic and wrap well. Let rest at room temperature for 20 minutes.

  3. Step 3

    Lightly brush a baking sheet with oil. Remove the dough from the plastic wrap and divide it evenly into two pieces. Place one half on the work surface and divide it again into two pieces (make sure the other half is wrapped so it doesn’t dry out). Using a rolling pin, shape each piece into a roughly 12-inch by 4-inch oval, about 1/16-inch thick. (For thinner noodles, see Tip.) Brush each oval with a little oil, then gently transfer onto the prepared baking sheet, oiled-side down. Lightly brush the tops with oil. Lay another sheet of plastic wrap directly on top of the dough. Divide the remaining half of the dough and repeat the process. Let dough rest on the counter for at least 3 hours and up to 6 hours. The dough should be very relaxed and droopy.

  4. Step 4

    Once the dough has rested, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil, then reduce to a simmer over low heat and cover so the water doesn’t evaporate too quickly. Lightly grease another baking sheet or a large platter. On a clean work surface, working with one oval of dough at a time, cut each crosswise into 6 strips. (If the oval stretches out a bit because it is very relaxed, that’s fine.) Pick up the end of one strip, and leaving the other end on the work surface, and gently pull it until it is at 2- to 2½-feet long and about 1-inch wide. (Don’t worry — the noodles will look very thin, but they will expand once cooked.) Lay the noodle on the prepared baking sheet, folding it in half as necessary to fit. At this point, it’s OK to lay the strands of noodles on top of each other.

  5. Step 5

    When the first batch of noodles is formed, return the heat under the pot to medium-high. Place a colander over a large bowl near the stove, and set aside another large bowl for the cooked noodles. Once the water is simmering, add the noodles. Using a pair of chopsticks, immediately stir to separate. Simmer for 2 minutes and transfer to the colander with the chopsticks. (The noodles should have a slightly chewy texture.) Rinse the noodles under cold water to stop the cooking, shake the colander to rid the noodles of excess water, transfer them to the large bowl and drizzle with a little oil to prevent sticking. Repeat with the remaining dough pieces. (To avoid having to refill the pot with water, reduce the heat to low in between batches; just make sure it’s boiling once the noodles are added.)

  6. Step 6

    The cooked noodles can be stir-fried, tossed with a sauce or served in a soup. If opting for the latter, just pour the hot broth over the noodles when ready to serve to prevent overcooking.

Tips
  • Make ahead: Cook noodles in the boiling water until they are separated into individual strands and begin to float, about 1 minute. Remove from the pot and run them under cold water. Drain excess liquid and toss all the noodles in 2 teaspoons of oil. Transfer to a bowl and place in the fridge, covered, for up to 1 day.
  • Tip: For thinner noodles, follow the recipe as instructed through Step 3, and into Step 4 when you prepare the pot of water. Working with one piece of dough at a time, cut each piece into ⅛-inch-thick strips on a clean work surface. You’ll have 8 to 12 strips per piece of dough. Pick up the end of one piece, leaving the other end on the surface, and gently pull in segments (about every inch of the dough), taking care not to pull too hard so it doesn’t rip. (Just like the wider noodles, each strand should be 2- to 2 ½-feet long.) Transfer the strands to the greased baking sheets, folding if necessary, as directed in the recipe. These noodles will only need to simmer for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Once removed from the pot, immediately rinse under cold water and drain excess liquid.

Ratings

4 out of 5
190 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

Tried this, but to varied success with stripping the dough to the recommended shapes. I believe the written instructions are too vague. An accompanying vid clip would help us first-timers enormously.

If any recipe ever needed a video or at least drawings, it's this one. Directions are extremely difficult to visualize.

In step 4, "working with one oval of dough at a time, cut each crosswise into 6 strips" does crosswise refer to cutting along the length of the oval into six 12" long strips, or cutting across the width into six 4" long strips, and then proceeding to "gently pull it until it is at 2- to 2½-feet long and about 1-inch wide"?

Or just go to Gene’s Chinese Flatbread Cafe in Woburn or Boston and let them do it. Insanely good.

I’d love to see a video of this.

How can prep time be "5 minutes" if you have to knead the dough for 10-15 minutes? Not to mention the mixing, and shaping, and cutting,and pulling. Please explain!

across the width, otherwise they would have stated "cut each lengthwise"

Would greatly appreciate a video.

For those looking for a video - a link is included in the first paragraph. Here it is again: https://www.nytimes.com/video/dining/1248069585393/hand-pulled-chinese-noodles.html?searchResultPosition=1 Watch noodlemeister Chen work his magic! Then go out and find some noodles at your local Asian market, because it looks way too complicated for most people to make these at home.

There is a very popular Chinese restaurant here where they pull (or shave) and cook fresh noodles per order. I read this with the hope I would recreate that at home. Alas, no luck. At the restaurant they use plenty of flour to dust between pulls--no oil. And no cutting or measuring. A lump of dough is pulled and folded, pulled and folded, and pulled to make 2, to 4, to 8, to 16, to 32, to 64, to 128 or maybe double that of strands (i lose count), then cut and dropped into the boiling water.

This dough worked well for making Biang Biang noodles. Instead of cutting the four portions of dough into smaller pieces, I pulled them to make four large noodles. Each noodle turned out to be about 7 feet long before being ripped lengthwise down the middle to form a loop of about 14 feet in circumference. After pulling and ripping the noodles I cooked them as directed in this recipe and served with chili oil

My noodles were not wide and flat as shown but were delicious. To make the final noodle shape I ended up swinging the dough in a jump rope type motion. I was weary on the instructions that the noodles could lay on top of each other but that ended up being true. Overall, pretty easy to do and so very good.

The use of plastic wrap is completely unnecessary and thoughtless.

For those looking for a video - a link is included in the first paragraph. Here it is again: https://www.nytimes.com/video/dining/1248069585393/hand-pulled-chinese-noodles.html?searchResultPosition=1 Watch noodlemeister Chen work his magic! Then go out and find some noodles at your local Asian market, because it looks way too complicated for most people to make these at home.

Can I freeze after step 3? Or refrigerate dough for later? I don’t want to cook and reheat

Struggling with this recipe now. These are probably the absolute worst instructions from any source I've ever seen or tried to work with and I've been cooking for 60 years.

If any recipe ever needed a video or at least drawings, it's this one. Directions are extremely difficult to visualize.

I’d love to see a video of this.

Would greatly appreciate a video.

Water is an ingredient!

How can prep time be "5 minutes" if you have to knead the dough for 10-15 minutes? Not to mention the mixing, and shaping, and cutting,and pulling. Please explain!

Prep time would be getting your ingredients out and measured....

Tried this, but to varied success with stripping the dough to the recommended shapes. I believe the written instructions are too vague. An accompanying vid clip would help us first-timers enormously.

Or just go to Gene’s Chinese Flatbread Cafe in Woburn or Boston and let them do it. Insanely good.

You said it - amazing. With cumin-lamb, even better!

In step 4, "working with one oval of dough at a time, cut each crosswise into 6 strips" does crosswise refer to cutting along the length of the oval into six 12" long strips, or cutting across the width into six 4" long strips, and then proceeding to "gently pull it until it is at 2- to 2½-feet long and about 1-inch wide"?

across the width, otherwise they would have stated "cut each lengthwise"

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