French Onion Panade

French Onion Panade
Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Amy Wilson.
Total Time
2 hours
Rating
4(767)
Notes
Read community notes

Panade is the French country cook's answer to stuffing — a satisfying and efficient way to use up stale bread. Because there are so few components, taking care to ensure that each one is just right will make all the difference in how the final dish tastes. Start with a stale, crusty loaf of sourdough bread. Cook the onions slowly, until they're a deep caramel color, and then season them properly with vinegar and wine. Buy good Gruyère and Parmesan, and grate it yourself. And finally, use either homemade chicken stock, or buy some from a butcher. The result will be triumph of upcycling: basically French onion soup without the soup — just bite after bite of cheesy, onion-and-stock-soaked bread. Serve it as a main course, with a light green salad and a dry white wine or an ice-cold beer.

Featured in: I Buy Fancy Bread Just to Let It Grow Stale. Here’s Why.

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Ingredients

Yield:8 to 12 servings
  • 1large, stale loaf crusty sourdough bread (about 1¼ pounds), cut into ⅓-inch slices
  • 8tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter, divided
  • 2tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 4pounds (about 5 large) yellow onions, thinly sliced
  • Fine sea salt
  • 2tablespoons white-wine vinegar
  • ¼cup white wine or dry vermouth
  • 5 to 6cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
  • 12ounces Gruyère cheese, grated (about 3 cups)
  • 3ounces Parmesan, finely grated (about 1⅓ cups)
  • Freshly ground black pepper
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (10 servings)

630 calories; 33 grams fat; 17 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 11 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 53 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams dietary fiber; 13 grams sugars; 31 grams protein; 1056 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat oven to 325.

  2. Step 2

    Divide bread slices among 2 or 3 baking sheets. Spread bread out in a single layer, and toast for 20 minutes, then flip slices, and rotate pans to ensure even toasting. Toast until dried out and lightly golden, about 35 minutes total. Set aside. Increase oven temperature to 425, and adjust oven rack to center position.

  3. Step 3

    Set a large Dutch oven or similar pot over medium heat. Add 4 tablespoons butter and olive oil. When butter has melted, add onions and 1½ teaspoons salt. Cook covered for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon.

  4. Step 4

    Once the onions cook down a bit and release some liquid, remove lid and increase heat to medium high. Continue cooking and stirring regularly until onions are tender and dark golden brown, about 45 minutes total. Turn off heat, add vinegar and wine and stir to deglaze. Taste, and adjust salt and vinegar as needed — the onions should be sweet, savory and pleasantly tangy. Spoon onions into a heatproof bowl, and set aside.

  5. Step 5

    Return pot to stove. Add stock and 1 teaspoon salt, and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Taste, and adjust salt as needed — it should taste like good chicken soup.

  6. Step 6

    Place both cheeses in a medium bowl, and mix to combine.

  7. Step 7

    Butter the inside of a deep 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Line the bottom with a layer of toasted bread, breaking up pieces as needed to form a solid layer. Spoon half the onion mixture evenly over the bread. Sprinkle with ⅓ of the cheese mixture, and season with pepper. Continue layering with bread, the remainder of the onions and another ⅓ of the cheese. Top off with a final layer of bread.

  8. Step 8

    Ladle 3 cups of stock over the panade, then wait a minute, and allow the bread to absorb liquid. Pressing down on panade with a metal spatula, add as much stock as the panade will absorb without overflowing. Dot the top layer of bread with remaining butter, then cover with parchment paper and foil. Place baking dish atop baking sheet to catch any overflow, then slide onto the center rack. Bake for 30 minutes, then remove foil and parchment, sprinkle with remaining cheese and return to oven for 15 minutes more. Bake until golden brown.

  9. Step 9

    Remove panade from oven, and allow it to cool for 10 minutes before serving. Cover, and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 2 months. Reheat to serve.

Tip
  • Use homemade chicken stock if possible, or buy it from a good butcher. This dish is about the marriage of bread and stock, so the better these are, the better the panade will be. And don’t be afraid to really submerge the bread in the stock before baking.

Ratings

4 out of 5
767 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

I suggest to begin cooking the onions as Step 1, then make the toast. Grate the cheese and butter the pan while the onions and bread cook. The recipe steps make this dish seem complicated, but it's not. Perhaps the NYT food editors should reconsider the standard recipe outline used here and by most cookbooks and websites, and come up with a better format to reflect the way people actually cook at home.

This looks delightful and delicious and something I'd like to attempt. However I have to question the instructions. Like most recipes that call for baking or roasting, we're instructed to preheat the oven first, no matter how long it takes to arrive at the moment the dish is placed in the oven. In this instance it appears to be over an hour from the time we're told to heat the oven. Of course most of us know to ignore or read through this step, but still...

Why would you read a recipe for baked bread and cheese in a search for healthy eating? This is a simple and straightforward meal, and not everyone chooses to eat healthily all the time. This is a dish with history and culture, too.

I've had a shamelessly deep affair with panade since my lucky introduction in madame L'Eplatinier's sal de cuisine, 1986. Her stern tutelage belied panade's history: As a nourishing way to use simple ingredients and help her family survive the privations of WWII.

This recipe is incredible. But I think it absolutely shines when twice baked. Either bake the day before or earlier the day of. Baking twice creates a drier, crispier panade with more concentrated flavors. Sometimes I’ll add fresh thyme to each layer or substitute beef stock which works as well.

This is ridiculously complex. In my house I would slice up onions and put In the crockpot with wine and butter. When I get home I layer onions with the cheese and onion mix with fresh parsley in a baking dish, I would take the leftover random meats and vegetables out of the fridge and pressure cook them and strain the stock into the pan and bake. It doesn't matter if the oven is preheated. Add extra cheese to the top and broil. Done and now you have used up most of your leftovers too!

I love the comments about the recipe and those that contribute to our knowledge. But I deplore the pseudo-scientific / medical advice. I don't think a random comment equating carb and protein spikes and the need to add fat with both is appropriate. If you want to give medical advice, include your credentials.

The woman across the dinner table was a psychologist. But for the 3 glasses of wine consumed she may not have asked, 'HOW do you stay SO well adjusted given your diagnosis?". This during course 3 as I mentioned living with progressive CNS disease for 40 years. "Cooking and food", I said. Specifically this kind of food and cooking. Making this kind of dish is Zen-time for me. And in this recipe it is as if I heard Samin's voice in my kitchen with me. So delicious!

As with any simple country recipe, the originators of the recipe would have used whatever stale bread/cheese they had on hand, so get creative! I usually try to find 3-4 recipes of the same dish to compare and see what kind of wiggle room there is, prepare it according to combo of best the first time, and then have fun making it my own after that. This seems like one of those recipes- best not to get too religious about the details, but use it as a learning tool to gain some new skills.

I made this and yes, like other experienced cooks, I started the onions first. The 2d time I made this, I used half the onions and added brown mushrooms and butternut spaghetti the last 15 minutes and spinach the last 5. Also delicious and a bit more nutritious

It really depends on what kind of stove you have. I was disgusted with the way my high-end Thermador was baking until the technician told me that most of the commercial-type home ranges need to preheat an hour because of the way they cycle-very high, back down, and so on, as they preheat. After an hour, they've stabilized. Please, if someone knows better, let us know! But meantime, that's the way I operate, and the baking is going better.

Perhaps there should be a new tab for those comments ranting about the healthfulness (or health-lessness) of the recipes!

I've made variations of this with different kinds of cheese and bread, both water and chicken stock and it always turns out wonderful. It is hard to go wrong with this. You can simplify some steps and it still works.

equally good with beef stock and some dark beer as the liquid.

Made a variation. Saw this on ABC 7, from restaurant Houseman. Cooked the 2-3 medium size onions, added 1-2 tbsp whole grain mustard, 1-2 tbsp wh wine vinegar, 1-2 tsp salt. Toasted a small ciabatta roll, put onion mixture on roll, then slice gruyere, melted under broiler. Great lunch or cut up as hor d’oeuvre.

This is a very sturdy base recipe that can tolerate lots of tweaks. I had some “buttermilk” (whey) left over from making ricotta cheese, so I used 2 cups of that along with 4 cups chicken bullion. Threw in some TVP, sautéed mushrooms and kale. Needed to use a larger roasting pan. Still turned out great.

Delish. Half recipe in 8 x 8 casserole with2 cups broth was perfect. May add some roasted veggies next time.

I made it as instructed with the exception of the amount of bread. I had a loaf of almost 2 lbs. which I cut and toasted thinking the extra bread could be frozen and used for croutons. I was able to get 2 layers and part of a third. I found the dish to be delicious but it took much longer than 2 hours with constant attention. The Gruyere cheese was a little expensive but worth it. The bread did get a bit stodgy when reheating I added a little hot stock and it loosened up a bit.

Wow!!! Really nice. And this morning, for breakfast, I tried it with poached eggs. Another winner!

Recipes like this are the reason I make big batches of caramelized Vidalia onions in the crockpot and keep them in the freezer.

In my forty years making French onion soup (call it soupe or panade, same thing depending on how much liquid you like), from Normandy to Provence and around the world, I have never used stock, only water as I was taught in France. The stock is created from the caramelized onions and cheese. I prefer a deep, round clay casserole which I bought at the public market in Cavaillon in 1992 for a handful of francs.

So with the goal of being frugal, the recipe requires making or buying homemade stock and expensive cheese.

I've made this several times, and it's wonderful. Last time I made it, I added left over turkey (shredded) and sautéed cabbage. Another time I added Swiss chard and left over salami. Instead of layering sliced toasted bread, I cut it into cubes, toasted it, and then mixed everything together before putting it in the baking dish.

Perfect! The sourdough bread adds great flavor, a sharp green salad is required, and it is, all and all, perfect as written.

This was amazing! I did have just a couple of modifications. My partner cut the bread into cubes rather than slices, so I decided to forgo the fussy layering, and left the onions in the stock, then mixed it up with the bread cubes. I also added some crumbled sage sausage, which was a nice treat. In addition, I dotted (dolloped) the top with ricotta instead of butter and it was a good decision. In all, a very tasty dinner, and one I will try the correct way in future!

A true love affair with food.

My biggest challenge with this recipe is making sure I have enough bread to make 3 layers in a 9x13 pan- it takes more than 1 1/4 lbs even when I’m careful to slice pretty thinly. The bread expands in the oven so it’s ok if everything doesn’t fit snugly together. It’s not the prettiest dish but so delicious- it makes your tummy feel warm and glowing!

I had the same issue with the bread. The loaf of bread I had was almost 2 pounds, I sliced it as directed and I had enough for 2 complete layers with a third partial.

I assume this will be even better with the rich beef stock that’s in my freezer. Will that work?

As Cole Porter would have said: too, too, too diveen! Quite time-consuming to put together, but absolutely luscious. I didn't have quite enough bread, even though my loaf exceeded 1.25 lb (and was not thickly sliced). So don't skimp on the bread. Also, and oddly, I followed the advice in the notes to start the onions first, and then had to wait for my bread to toast! Usually caramelizing onions takes ages, but mine went super fast tonight.

Can I make this with a beef stock or a combo of stock and broth? Don’t have any chicken stock at the moment.

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