A Weekend Getaway to the Least-Crowded Island in the Pacific Northwest
Lummi Island, a quaint isle in the San Juan Archipelago, has a little arts scene and a lot of peace and quiet.
Seagulls duck and dive around the ferry dock as a line of cars load onto the Whatcom Chief. To test my ferry karma, I purposefully didn’t consult the schedule—a risky endeavor on a warm, clear Saturday in July. A wave of gratitude rushes through me as mine is the last of just 20 cars to board the tiny ferry that will carry us across the Hale Passage to Lummi Island in just five minutes. The postcard-ready scene features deep blue-green waters glistening in the sunlight, evergreen trees standing tall and resolute in the distance, and a cloudless, cerulean sky above. As we arrive island-side, the salty, pungent scent of low-tide fills the air.
Lummi Island may not be counted among the cool crowd of San Juan’s archipelago, but what it unjustifiably lacks in popularity points, it makes up for with its peaceful, natural refuge devoid of heavy tourist crowds. Just 20 miles south of the Canadian border and about 90 miles north of Seattle, Lummi Island sits in the coveted Olympic Rain Shadow, a small area northwest of Seattle that gets significantly more sun and less rain than the rest of the state, making even many winter days dryer and brighter than one might expect.
With a year-round population of just under a thousand people—mostly artists, writers, farmers, and fishermen—it’s a cozy respite from buzzy city life, where art and nature rejuvenate residents and visitors alike.
To get there, the 20-car Whatcom Chief ferry shuttles passengers back and forth across Hale Passage from Bellingham. It’s a quick, five-minute ride during which the on-board ferry workers will collect your $14 payment (no cash) one-by-one via hand-held credit card machines.
There are few services available on the modest, 9.25-square-mile island, so you’ll want to stock up on groceries and fuel before heading over from the mainland.
Travel Time:
2 hours, 30 minutes from Seattle
1 hour from the Canadian border
If you don’t do anything else: Hike to the top of Lummi Mountain
On a clear day, the best views can be found at the peak of Lummi Mountain, a moderate-to-strenuous hike up a steep, winding trail through the forest. The 1.64-mile, round-trip journey offers stunning views of Rosario Strait and Orcas Island at the top of the western-facing cliff—a 1,060-foot elevation gain. Dogs are not allowed and hikers are asked to sign in at the trailhead due to the area’s ecological sensitivity and sometimes hazardous terrain. Standing at the top looking out over the Salish Sea, it’s no wonder the original inhabitants called the island Sa nam a o or “high mountain.”
Fill Your Days:
Hiking and Stargazing on Lummi Island
Lummi Island Heritage Trust owns more than 760 acres of land with miles of public hiking trails through fields, forests, meadows and wetlands, including Otto, Baker, Curry and Aiston Preserves. Otto and Curry Preserves each have one all-terrain wheelchair that visitors can borrow at no charge. Dogs must be leashed and are only allowed at Otto, Curry and Aiston.
Come nightfall, bask under starlight. There are no street lights on the island, which makes it a great place to stargaze when the moon is new, especially on the west side of the island which faces away from the bright lights of the mainland. Experts say the best way to start exploring the night sky is with the unaided eye and an inexpensive, easy-to-use star wheel that can help you learn the star names and constellations.
Relaxing things to do on Lummi Island
A leisurely drive around the island – Take it slow and enjoy island time. The loop road offers epic views of the Salish Sea and surrounding islands and is dotted with cat crossings, deer crossings, hidden driveways and wildlife corridors. You’re just as likely to see a deer and her fawn crossing the road as you are a pair of walkers or bikers.
Long walks on the beach – Most Lummi Island beaches are private with just three small public waterfronts: Lummi Island Beach adjacent to the ferry dock, Sunset Beach just south of the famed Willows Inn and Church Beach and Labyrinth behind Lummi Island Congregational Church. They each offer distinctive views of the surrounding archipelago.
Where to experience arts and culture on Lummi Island
If your visit happens to coincide with the one day of the month that the Ann Morris Sculpture Woods are open, don’t miss the opportunity to peruse this incredible, 15-acre space. Morris uses myth and metaphor to explore the relationship between nature and humankind. The amount of detail and facial expression in the 16 figurative bronze sculptures are impressive. Given as a gift to Western Washington University by the artist and her family, self-guided tours of the Sculpture Woods and accompanying gallery are free and only open to the public on the first Saturday of every month.
Stop by the Full Bloom Farm stand for fresh produce, stay overnight in the loft and attend one of the many creative workshops led by local and visiting artists. This year’s calendar features classes in sewing, drawing, painting, flower arranging, fish printing and even kintsugi or gold joinery,the Japanese craft of repairing ceramics.
The island is home to many creative people, including weavers, potters, painters, jewelers, sculptors, photographers, furniture makers and glass and fiber artists. Many of them can be found at the Saturday Market , a community event filled with arts, crafts, music and fresh produce from 10 am to 1 pm weekly.
Eat, Drink and Sleep:
Where to eat and drink on Lummi Island
Pick up basic groceries, snacks, and a smattering of beer and wine at The Islander—the island’s only market. Perched on a little hill just south of the ferry dock, you may also find locals playing checkers, drinking fresh coffee or posting information to the community bulletin board.
Dine on fresh, local food like fish and chips, pizza, Greek fries, burgers and salads at the Beach Store Cafe. Established in 1901 as a mercantile and gas station, the restaurant is an island favorite, a short walk from the ferry landing and a great place to sit and watch the ferry go by.
Stop by Full Bloom Farm stand—a small diversified farm growing a wide range of fruits and vegetables using organic practices—to stock up on fresh eggs, flowers and produce from April through December.
Did you forget that bottle of wine for your beach picnic? Don’t despair. Artisan Wine Gallery is available anytime to help with “wine emergencies” or $5 tastings on Friday and Saturday from 4 to 6 pm, including artisan cheeses from nearby producers and work by local artists.
Where to stay on Lummi Island
Lummi Island is a perfect place for a day-trip if you’re staying on the mainland in Bellingham. For those who just can’t stand to leave, there are dozens of Airbnbs on the island, including yurts, cabins, guest rooms, treehouses, and Airstream trailers for less than $200 per night, and whole, oceanfront homes with stunning views and hot tubs for more than $900 per night. But they tend to fill up fast during the summer months, so make sure to book in advance if possible.