Review After 3 Months of Ownership:
Managed to break one of the slats in the frame by pulling my S/O down next to me on the same corner of the frame. Not too big of a deal because of where the slat is located, but hopefully it doesn't happen anywhere else.
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Review After 2 Weeks of Ownership:
Despite having only owned this bedframe for 2 weeks now, I will go ahead and make a review of the assembly and how it feels and the perceived sturdiness as of this point, I may update this review eventually, but if there is no update, assume that nothing has changed and the bedframe is still intact.
First, I'll mention the assembly.
Assembling the bedframe isn't too difficult, and I'd imagine it would be fairly easy with multiple people at your disposal, but it wasn't too bad for one person. The instructions are lacking, but nothing that anyone couldn't figure out. Also, if you go to count the screws in the package and you're wondering why you're missing 3, it's because they are pre-screwed into the three middle leg pieces. The pieces are ridiculously heavy individually, but the box itself is pretty heavy and awkwardly long. Assembly is simple. Attach the four bars using plastic corner pieces, then take metal braces and screw them to each corner, and then attach the legs to the four corners, then attach the middle bar, then attach the middle legs. The wood slat assembly is annoying and time consuming, but not hard. Just fit the single end onto one end of a wood slat, attach the other end into a two-sided plastic piece, and then another slat to that and the one sided plastic piece to that side, same as in the beginning. Then take a hammer (rubber mallet would be safer) and tap the plastic prongs into their holes in the three metal frame pieces. Voila, you're finished.
Personally, I found the frame to be a little low to the floor, so I went and purchased two sets of four 5" bed risers to raise it up, and now it's a tad high, but much better than being something like 10 inches from the floor. It feels pretty sturdy, but if you look under it while you or someone else is leaning on one knee on it or putting a lot of weight on a small point, the slats look like they would break fairly easily, so I would be a little cautious with how you handle yourself and others on the bed afterwards. The mattress will help disperse the weight semi-evenly, but it can only do so much. I have not conducted any "activities" on this bedframe yet, but I'm sure that unless you're going for some serious gold, you should be just fine.
This bedframe relieves the need for a box spring or platform under a mattress, which is great, and in turn, means there is essentially no noise whatsoever. I have noticed no squeaking or noise of any kind getting on, off or general movement around and on the bed, so it is ceraintly more silent than the other options.
All in all, I would just advise caution to those with "active" lifestyles that go for gold on a frequent basis, because the wooden slats could likely break under some serious action. Also just be generally aware of not putting a lot of weight in a single spot. Otherwise, the bedframe is nice and quiet, pretty easy to assemble and works like a charm so far.
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Size: Twin
Size: Twin XL
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Material: Wood
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Height: Up to 9 in
Height: 10 to 29 in
Type: Adjustable
Type: Box Spring
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Furniture Finish: White
Style: Modern
Style: Contemporary
Upholstery Material: Leather
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This Item  Handy Living Platform Bed Frame - Wooden Slat Mattress Foundation/Box Spring Replacement, Queen |  |  |  |  |  | |
| Price | Currently unavailable. | $60.99 | -34% $98.95 List: $149.00 | -47% $132.97 List: $250.00 | $200.99 | -22% $172.26 List: $220.00 |
| Delivery | — | — | — | Get it as soon as Tuesday, Jul 30 | Get it as soon as Tuesday, Jul 30 | Get it as soon as Tuesday, Jul 30 |
| Customer Ratings | ||||||
| Easy to assemble | ||||||
| Sturdiness | ||||||
| Value for money | ||||||
| Storage Capacity | ||||||
| Maneuverability | ||||||
| Sold By | — | NEW JETO | Amazon.com | Amazon.com | Amazon.com | Amazon.com |
| size | Queen | Full | Queen | Twin | Queen | King |
| material | Steel | Iron | Bamboo | Steel, Plywood, Bamboo | Wood, Alloy Steel | Wood |
| max. recommended weight | 300 pounds | 1100 pounds | 700 pounds | 350 pounds | 700 pounds | 700 pounds |
| furniture finish | Black | Black | Alloy Steel | Alloy Steel | Natural Finish | Natural Finish |
| weight | 49.17 pounds | — | 43.78 pounds | 38.58 pounds | 48.5 pounds | 64.24 pounds |
Reviews with images
Advice and Instructions!
[I give it 5 stars for the price, but 4 overall. It's quite good.]0) Take your time and do it right...slower is better1) Count your pieces before you begin. My most recent bed was missing about half the pieces. See pics.2) The middle rail was bent on both of my frames (but not the replacement Amazon sent).Check the middle rail for a bend. If you bend it back, use a vice or LARGE tool and make sure you bend it applying pressure at the base so that it bends FLAT into a perfect T-shape, not with a "crease".If you have a concrete or brick ledge to steady the rail on, you could probably bend it back with a hammer...again, do not bend PART of the piece, bend the whole thing.It needs to have a ledge so you can "hang" the bent piece in space and fully bend it back down--even a cinder block or single brick will do.3) Use a mallet if you have one. If not you could try a hammer and some cardboard from the box to buffer the plastic target. If you use a rubber mallet you are guaranteed not to bend any of the plastic tines. (My first assembly did not require a rubber mallet but this one did.)4) Buy a good universal driver (preferably a ratcheting one) that has both metric and SAE hex bits (as well as Roberts, Phillips, star, etc). Here's a random one from Amazon that I don't own as an example. (This one doesn't ratchet)http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Locking-Quick-Change-Magnetic-Extension/dp/B00FL6P7FQ5) You should always assemble these things like changing a tire...go around the whole thing once hand tight only, then again 50%+ tight with tool, then again 100%. Either alternate or just go in a circle.--Attach the plastic corner pieces first. They won't go in all the way but don't worry about it, they don't do anything.Use the mallet if you want. Don't use a hammer.[There may be some plastic burrs on the pieces you will either have to scrape off, or just bang them in with the mallet regardless.]--Note that you don't "need" these pieces...they are just to save your shins from getting gouged by open steel railings. If you break one, you can buy plugs for them at the hardware store, or use duck tape. Or simply put that broken corner against the wall--Then attach the middle rail and tighten it 100%. This step is crucial if your rail is bent otherwise the bed may not go together.--Now put the corner pieces in place but ONLY HAND TIGHTEN and not even all the way, just enough to keep the nuts on the bolts[This part may go easier with a friend]--Now put the corner legs on. Fully screw in all 4 corner legs but don't mess with the rest of the corner pieces--The corner legs will be AT AN ANGLE if you don't eyeball them and make sure they are 90 degrees up-and-down. You can use a book up against the leg to make sure they are level (works best on hard wood, not as well on carpet).Once the leg is a perfect 90 degrees, THEN you fully tighten the corner piece for THAT LEG while keeping it in place--If you don't do that, some of your legs will angle inward and can break from the angular strain.--Put on your other legs--Put in all the center (double) brackets--Grab a slat, attach an end bracket, then slide the empty end into the center bracket--Once it's in place, get the (side) bracket tines lined up with the bracket holes and hit it once or twice with your mallet--Repeat until finished
