36 Hours in Zurich

Wander south along Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s upscale main shopping street, that stretches from the central train station to the lake. Signs of Switzerland’s longstanding ties to watchmaking and finance are everywhere. Stop at the AP House, a store opened in 2022 by the luxury watchmaker Audemars Piguet and housed in the marble-clad former cashier hall of what was once Switzerland’s oldest bank, Bank Leu. Today the majestic building, with its mosaic flooring and imposing columns, is under historical protection. To try on the watches, make an appointment ahead of time.

Cross Bellevueplatz, make your way along the lake’s eastern shore and pass the Seebad Utoquai bathhouse, open to hardy cold-water swimmers between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. on winter weekends (8 francs). Farther along the path is Pavillon Le Corbusier, a museum that is the final work by the Swiss-French architect for whom it is named, and his only building made of steel and glass. The museum, which has housed Corbusier’s artworks and designs since 1967, is closed for the season until May, but it is striking even from the outside. Also on the path is Jean Tinguely’s “Heureka,” a large outdoor kinetic sculpture made of wheels and other bits and bobs. This is a great spot to enjoy the view: On a clear day, you can see the snow-covered mountains across the lake.

Zurich’s art scene may not have the same international reputation as Basel, with its world-famous art fair, but it can more than hold its own. While the crowds flock to Switzerland’s largest art museum, the Kunsthaus, with its extensive Impressionist collection, those in favor of more cutting-edge art head to Löwenbräukunst. Wander through the different floors of the former brewery turned cultural complex, now home to a number of stand-alone art spaces, including international galleries like Hauser & Wirth (free) and contemporary art museums like the Kunsthalle (12 francs). Check out the limited-edition prints and monotypes on view at Edition VFO, a nonprofit organization dedicated to making quality art more accessible; most works are priced under 1,000 francs. Visit Löwenbräukunst’s website for a list of current exhibitions.

On weekends, Zurich’s nightlife moves away from the centrally located bars and out to the loud and lively Langstrasse, a street and surrounding area where people dress expressively and the city’s stereotypical polished image falls away. In a century-old building, Schnupf is perfect for transitioning between different stages of the evening: Start with an apero at the bar, dig into steak frites (48 francs) with a zesty Béarnaise sauce for dinner, then people-watch with a Negroni Sbagliato (15 francs) as the music turns up later in the night. The menu isn’t big, but almost everything, including the ketchup, is made from scratch. The whole artichoke that comes with a gravy boat of vinaigrette on the side (19 francs) is a crowd pleaser. The restaurant’s owners kept some of the building’s older design features, including a mosaic of two monkeys, which adds to its charm.

Make your way up Langstrasse to the relatively new Stereo, a bar that plays vinyl records over a high-fidelity sound system. The midcentury modern interior uses a lot of wood and gives the place a warm feel. Grab one of the specialty cocktails on tap, such as the creamy espresso martini or the fresh ginger-and-yuzu Moscow Mule (18 francs each), then join the dance floor and enjoy the tunes, which, depending on the night, might include electronic, house and funk.

Although the Swiss Alps are easily reachable in a day, Zurich has its own mountain closer to home. At 2,850 feet, Uetliberg may not be a giant, but it offers a few hiking and snowshoeing routes. From the last stop on the No. 13 tram, you can reach the top on foot in under an hour (be warned, the paths can get a bit icy). The summit, which has a lookout tower, has a view over the whole city and the lake. Then visit one of the winter food stands (through Feb. 28), which sell raclette (cheese melted over boiled potatoes and pickled onions, 12 francs), or warm up inside one of the restaurants, which include a fondue chalet, at the Uto Kulm Hotel. To see the view without working up a sweat, the S10 train from Zurich’s main station will take you most of the way up. Get out at the Uetliberg station; the top is a 15-minute walk from there. When there is enough snow, it is also possible to rent a toboggan (25 francs) at the hotel and slide back down to town.