36 Hours
36 Hours in Washington, D.C.
![](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-vptf/09Hours-WashDC-vptf-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
At times, Washington D.C. can feel like a tale of two cities: Politicians and temporary dwellers versus multi-generational residents fighting to hold onto their piece of the district. Once known as “Chocolate City” because of its predominantly African American population, Washington has seen its demographics shift dramatically in recent decades, bringing both positive and negative effects of gentrification. The second phase of a $3.6 billion development of the Wharf district has contributed a new Pendry luxury hotel and splashy dining destinations, all against the backdrop of skyrocketing living costs (only recently cooling), increased crime and ongoing questions of cultural identity. Even in this time of transition, Washington is still a hub of art, history and social-justice leadership, and is home to many of the best free museums and monuments in the world.
Recommendations
- The Wharf, Washington’s rapidly changing waterfront area, overlooks the Potomac River and features a fish market, local boutiques, restaurants and music venues.
- Anacostia Community Museum highlights social issues within the Anacostia neighborhood and African American neighborhoods around the country. It is part of the Smithsonian Institution, the world’s biggest museum complex.
- Frederick Douglass National Historic Site, also called Cedar Hill, is the restored 19th-century estate of the abolitionist and orator Frederick Douglass.
- The Bazaar by José Andrés is the whimsical, fine-dining culmination of the Spanish chef José Andrés’s 30 years in Washington.
- Monuments Tour From the Wharf, a boat tour by City Experiences, takes passengers on the Potomac River past landmarks like the Lincoln Memorial and the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts.
- Anacostia Riverwalk Trail runs along the Anacostia River, through forests, marsh and Anacostia Park.
- Museum of Illusions Washington, one of the city’s newest museums, has more than 50 mind-bending illusions.
- National Museum of Women in the Arts, the country’s first museum dedicated to female artists, has reopened after a two-year renovation.
- The Market Lunch is the counter-service breakfast and lunch restaurant within Eastern Market that is known for its crab cakes.
- Love, Makoto is a 20,000-square-foot Japanese food hall with a steakhouse, an omakase, an izakaya and a grab-and-go cafeteria.
- Ilili is an upscale Lebanese restaurant at the Wharf, known for its hummus, offered with a variety of toppings, and duck shawarma.
- Moonraker, the rooftop bar at the new Pendry Washington D.C. hotel, serves sake and Japanese cocktails while overlooking Virginia and the Potomac River.
- Turning Natural serves fresh-pressed juices, smoothies and plant-based bites in underserved communities, including in the Anacostia neighborhood.
- Shop Made in DC showcases nearly 5,000 products made by more than 200 Washington-based artisans at its four shops across the city, including at the Wharf.
- Eastern Market, an indoor-outdoor food and arts market in the Capitol Hill neighborhood, celebrates its 150th anniversary this year.
- Pendry Washington D.C. – The Wharf is a nautically tinged, luxury boutique hotel with arguably the best outdoor swimming pool and terrace in Washington. Rooms start from $395.
- Willard InterContinental Washington, D.C., at more than 200 years old, is a classic Washington hotel near the White House that recently underwent an extensive $18 million renovation. Rooms start from $218.
- Hotel Hive has a variety of rooms with king, queen or bunk beds to fit every budget, but at 125- to 250-square-feet each, you’ll sacrifice space. If you really want a deal (and can sleep through anything), book a “Buzz” room, which is directly over the hotel’s occasionally noisy bar and pizza restaurant. Rooms start from $74.
- For short-term rentals, look in the Capitol Riverfront, Southwest Waterfront or Foggy Bottom neighborhoods, all with easy Metro access for exploring other parts of the city.
- Most of Washington’s neighborhoods are walkable, especially near the downtown area. The Metrorail system, though less reliable on weekends, is affordable, expansive and also reaches to Maryland and Virginia. Ride-sharing apps like Uber and Lyft are popular options for late-night needs, but if the weather is nice during the day, consider renting a bike from one of the hundreds of Capital Bikeshare docking stations across the Washington metro area.
Itinerary
Friday
![A person sits on a bench on the deck of a boat, twisting to the side to take a photo. Beyond is the water, and to the right, some trees on land. A helicopter flies overhead against blue sky.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-wflv/09Hours-WashDC-wflv-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A person sits on a bench on the deck of a boat, twisting to the side to take a photo. Beyond is the water, and to the right, some trees on land. A helicopter flies overhead against blue sky.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-wflv/09Hours-WashDC-wflv-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![People dine inside a restaurant that has large, decorative bird cages hanging from the ceiling. A large tree inside the restaurant is illuminated from the bottom. One birdcage and the tree are reflected in a pool of water in the foreground, presumably from a fountain.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-hzvk/09Hours-WashDC-hzvk-mobileMasterAt3x-v2.jpg)
![People dine inside a restaurant that has large, decorative bird cages hanging from the ceiling. A large tree inside the restaurant is illuminated from the bottom. One birdcage and the tree are reflected in a pool of water in the foreground, presumably from a fountain.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-hzvk/09Hours-WashDC-hzvk-mobileMasterAt3x-v2.jpg)
![Young people, maybe on a school tour, stand in a grand interior looking up where a person in a red jacket is pointing. Behind them is a very large painting with a golden frame.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-02-vpcj/09Hours-WashDC-02-vpcj-mobileMasterAt3x-v3.jpg)
Saturday
![The interior of a museum with walls displaying text and images. A large, textured light fixture in a warm, gold color hangs from the ceiling.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-cqzg/09Hours-WashDC-cqzg-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![The interior of a museum with walls displaying text and images. A large, textured light fixture in a warm, gold color hangs from the ceiling.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-cqzg/09Hours-WashDC-cqzg-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A plate of five heart-shaped doughnuts, each differently decorated with colored frosting.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-01-pmqf/09Hours-WashDC-01-pmqf-mobileMasterAt3x-v3.jpg)
![A plate of five heart-shaped doughnuts, each differently decorated with colored frosting.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-01-pmqf/09Hours-WashDC-01-pmqf-mobileMasterAt3x-v3.jpg)
![A person stands with their arms out in a dark room. Their face is washed in pink light. They are casting a shadow on a wall projected in shades of blue.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-cfbl/09Hours-WashDC-cfbl-mobileMasterAt3x-v2.jpg)
![A person stands with their arms out in a dark room. Their face is washed in pink light. They are casting a shadow on a wall projected in shades of blue.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-cfbl/09Hours-WashDC-cfbl-mobileMasterAt3x-v2.jpg)
![Two people, in silhouette, sit on a bench by a wharf in the daytime. They are framed by overhanging leafy branches in the foreground. Behind them are boats on the water.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-01-vpcj/09Hours-WashDC-01-vpcj-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
Sunday
![People sit at a long wooden table. An open kitchen is visible behind them, with a chalkboard menu suspended above.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-kfbp/09Hours-WashDC-kfbp-mobileMasterAt3x-v2.jpg)
![People sit at a long wooden table. An open kitchen is visible behind them, with a chalkboard menu suspended above.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-kfbp/09Hours-WashDC-kfbp-mobileMasterAt3x-v2.jpg)
![Two people stand inside a museum space and look at an art installation of many pieces of silverware and silver platters that are suspended from the ceiling on strings inches off the floor.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-hqwp/09Hours-WashDC-hqwp-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![Two people stand inside a museum space and look at an art installation of many pieces of silverware and silver platters that are suspended from the ceiling on strings inches off the floor.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/11/09/multimedia/09Hours-WashDC-hqwp/09Hours-WashDC-hqwp-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)