36 Hours
36 Hours in Charleston, S.C.
![A view over a city skyline during a brilliantly colored sunset. A church steeple rises above the buildings.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-fkhc/14hours-charleston-fkhc-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
When most people think of Charleston, South Carolina’s oldest city, they often picture its walkable downtown, with its cobblestones, Colonial architecture and horse-drawn carriages. But beyond the historic district, you’ll find small islands with coastal views and waterways, and neighborhoods with their own wealth of history. While the city’s pivotal role in the trans-Atlantic slave trade continues to spark debate about how much to focus on that narrative for visitors, an answer has arrived in the International African American Museum, a $120 million project that opened in June after 20 years in the making. Charleston has been accused of being obsessed with history; in reality, it’s an evolving city amid a tourism boom that is striving to use the past to inform its future.
Recommendations
- Hannibal’s Kitchen has been serving authentic soul food for nearly 40 years.
- International African American Museum is an expansive new museum chronicling Black history through a Carolinian lens.
- The Obstinate Daughter is a sunny second-floor brunch spot on Sullivan’s Island.
- Gibbes Museum of Art offers three stories of art centered around Charleston.
- Fleet Landing Restaurant and Bar serves seafood dishes in a 1940s former naval building with a harbor view.
- Sorelle is a new Italian-inspired restaurant, bar and market.
- Henry’s On the Market offers live music and elevated bar food in a casual environment.
- George C. Birlant & Company is a large store where you can browse 18th- and 19th-century antiques.
- Buxton Books is a friendly bookstore and the starting place for the Lost Stories of Black Charleston walking tour.
- Sullivan’s Island is a cozy beach town a short drive from downtown. It has the small Edgar Allan Poe Library, housed in a former Spanish-American War battery and named for the poet who spent time on the island.
- Philip Simmons House is a museum in the former home of the celebrated ironworker from South Carolina.
- McLeod Plantation Historic Site offers insight into Gullah Geechee culture, stories about slavery and Charleston history.
- Charleston Gaillard Center is a grand theater presenting classical music and Broadway shows.
- 20 South Battery is a small hotel near Oyster Point with views of White Point Garden, Fort Sumter and the Charleston Harbor. Rooms start from $550 a night.
- The Ryder Hotel is a boutique experience in downtown Charleston within walking distance of a wide range of retail, dining and nightlife options. Enjoy its midcentury modern décor and poolside bar, with rooms from about $350 a night.
- Lavender & Lace is a bed-and-breakfast in a 1870s Victorian home, offering two suites as well as a two-story carriage house, all with private entrances. Rooms start around $119.
- If you’d rather opt for a beach house, try searching for short-term rentals on Sullivan’s Island.
- Downtown Charleston is pedestrian-friendly. On busy weekends, when street parking is limited, there are plenty of public garages where you can ditch your car for $1 per half-hour. Ubers and Lyfts are readily available for traveling to barrier islands and neighborhoods on the outskirts of Charleston.
Itinerary
Friday
![Five people wearing summery clothes cross a road in single file. The road is lined with palm trees jutting toward an overcast sky. At the far end of the road is a tall church tower.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-fkzg/14hours-charleston-fkzg-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![Five people wearing summery clothes cross a road in single file. The road is lined with palm trees jutting toward an overcast sky. At the far end of the road is a tall church tower.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-fkzg/14hours-charleston-fkzg-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![People sit in a horse-drawn carriage that is crossing a road lined with palm trees during the daytime. In the carriage, a person that appears to be a tour guide stands and faces the sitting people.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-czfg/14hours-charleston-czfg-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
Saturday
![A sandy area with patches of grass before a blue ocean during the daytime.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-fmkv/14hours-charleston-fmkv-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A sandy area with patches of grass before a blue ocean during the daytime.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-fmkv/14hours-charleston-fmkv-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![Two people peer in the doorway of a small white house with a brick chimney. There is a row of these small white houses stretching along an outdoor area that is shaded by overhanging trees.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-zcjg/14hours-charleston-zcjg-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![Two people peer in the doorway of a small white house with a brick chimney. There is a row of these small white houses stretching along an outdoor area that is shaded by overhanging trees.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-zcjg/14hours-charleston-zcjg-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A plate of fried fish and vegetables, including asparagus.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-gvcj/14hours-charleston-gvcj-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A plate of fried fish and vegetables, including asparagus.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-gvcj/14hours-charleston-gvcj-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A street at nighttime lined with grand three-story buildings that are illuminated by street lights. A person rides by on a bicycle.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-thgj/14hours-charleston-thgj-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
Sunday
![People sit on a bench inside a museum. In front of them is a digital display with a red-colored map of the world with the words:](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-hpbf/14hours-charleston-hpbf-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![People sit on a bench inside a museum. In front of them is a digital display with a red-colored map of the world with the words:](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-hpbf/14hours-charleston-hpbf-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A person with a dog on a leash stands in front of a marble cafe counter with gold accents. Gold pendant lights hang above the counter. Daylight streams in through the cafe's big windows.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-fckm/14hours-charleston-fckm-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A person with a dog on a leash stands in front of a marble cafe counter with gold accents. Gold pendant lights hang above the counter. Daylight streams in through the cafe's big windows.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/14/multimedia/14hours-charleston-fckm/14hours-charleston-fckm-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)