36 Hours
36 Hours in Philadelphia
![Two people lean on a railing, underneath a large stone arch, looking out onto a river on a cloudy day. A suspension bridge stretches out across the river, and a speedboat makes its way across the water.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-htkm/27hours-philadelphia-htkm-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
Philadelphians can be tough on their hometown, griping about the traffic, the crime, the long-suffering sports teams. But these quibbles are mere blips compared to the attractions that await visitors: the colonial charm of the Old City, a barbacoa breakfast in the historic Italian Market, glittering mosaics on South Street and the fine restaurants in Fishtown. Long known for its food, the city now takes its meals outdoors — a pandemic holdover — in leafy new courtyards and gardens. For those visiting soon, spring is synonymous with street festivals: There’s the food-and-drink smorgasbord along East Passyunk Avenue; a wild homemade-vehicle race at the Kensington Derby and Arts Festival; a fashionable soiree with live music on Rittenhouse Square; and the annual greased pole climbing competition at the Italian Market Festival.
Recommendations
- The Barnes Foundation showcases an extraordinary collection of Impressionist, Post-Impressionist and Modern art.
- Suraya, a restaurant in the Fishtown neighborhood, serves modern Lebanese cuisine and has a serene courtyard.
- The Magic Gardens is a glittering, mosaicked art environment created by the local artist Isaiah Zagar.
- The Bok Building, a decommissioned school, is today a creative workplace with a half-dozen shops, a bakery and a rooftop bar (among many other things).
- Schuylkill River Trail has an over-water boardwalk and riverside path.
- Cherry Street Pier is an old pier building that now houses artist studios in stacked shipping containers.
- Independence Hall offers tours of the building where the founding fathers signed the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution.
- Elfreth’s Alley is a cobblestone lane with 18th-century houses and colonial vibes.
- Eastern State Penitentiary offers audio tours through the former prison where inmates included the Chicago gangster Al Capone.
- Wissahickon Valley Park, in northwestern Philadelphia, has miles of trails winding through a wooded gorge.
- Middle Child Clubhouse is a rollicking new hangout with imaginative food and cocktails.
- Bob and Barbara’s Lounge is a Center City dive bar with live music every weekend.
- Mighty Bread Co. is a South Philly bakery with a new side-street cafe and great breakfast sandwiches.
- Korshak Bagels is a popular new destination for sourdough bagels and special schmears.
- South Philly Barbacoa, in the historic Italian market, serves steaming bowls of consomé, a Mexican-style broth.
- Essen Bakery offers a densely swirled chocolate-halva babka.
- Machine Shop is a bakery that sells baguettes and orange-cardamom morning buns.
- Bok Bar is an open-air rooftop with food pop-ups, cultural events, live music and great views.
- Eeva is a new all-day cafe, bakery, wine shop and restaurant serving wood-fired pizzas.
- Human Robot, a Kensington craft brewery, offers classic European-style lagers and juicy American I.P.A.s.
- Martha is a cozy bar with a fireplace and a dreamy enclosed patio strung with lights.
- Dalessandro’s, a steak shop in Roxborough, makes one of the best cheesesteaks in the city.
- Brickbat Books is a used-book store with artist monographs, illustrated children’s books, poetry and literature.
- Moon + Arrow is a serene home goods store in the Queen Village neighborhood.
- Philly Vintage Bazaar stocks vintage clothing, accessories and pieces made by local artisans.
- Baby Tooth is a shop with design pieces and illustrations made in the Bok building.
- Rider Ceramics is a studio and shop with glossy iridescent vases.
- Greenly Plant Co. is a plant store that also sells candy-colored planters.
- The Lokal Hotel is a beautifully renovated brick townhouse on a tree-lined street in the Old City. The six apartment-style lofts have peacock-blue kitchens, salvaged-oak floors and midcentury-modern furniture. Double rooms from $297.
- In Center City, the Guild House Hotel opened in 2021 with 12 sumptuous guest rooms in a landmark rowhouse that was formerly home to the New Century Guild, a women’s support organization founded in suffrage-era Philadelphia. Doubles from $229.
- La Reserve Bed and Breakfast, near Rittenhouse Square, occupies a pair of 19th-century townhouses with a dozen guestrooms, some with shared bathrooms, and classic décor. Doubles from $119 (with shared bath), breakfast included.
- For short-term rentals, consider the Rittenhouse Square neighborhood, with its central location, beautiful brownstones and high-end shops. Or look in Bella Vista, a walkable residential area on the border of central and south Philly with great dining and the historic open-air Italian Market.
- Having a car can be handy — despite traffic and the hassle of parking — but not necessary. Much of central Philadelphia is walkable, and SEPTA, the public transit system, has an extensive network of train, subway, trolley and bus lines. Taxis and ride-hailing services like Uber and Lyft are also plentiful.
Itinerary
Friday
![People sit on benches on a grassy hill next to a wood-planked pedestrian path at sunset. The path turns into a red pedestrian bridge that stretches out of frame. Behind the people are distant buildings stretching into the sky.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-mwpq/27hours-philadelphia-mwpq-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![People sit on benches on a grassy hill next to a wood-planked pedestrian path at sunset. The path turns into a red pedestrian bridge that stretches out of frame. Behind the people are distant buildings stretching into the sky.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-mwpq/27hours-philadelphia-mwpq-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![Two people view framed artworks in a gallery space. Paintings of different sizes are mounted close together on a wall that is painted a pale peach color. In between the paintings are various metallic objects that appear to be hooks and and hinges.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-hwpg/27hours-philadelphia-hwpg-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![Two people view framed artworks in a gallery space. Paintings of different sizes are mounted close together on a wall that is painted a pale peach color. In between the paintings are various metallic objects that appear to be hooks and and hinges.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-hwpg/27hours-philadelphia-hwpg-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A close up view of a charred lemon, cut in half, and some broiled oysters topped with finely chopped greens.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-pkfq/27hours-philadelphia-pkfq-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A close up view of a charred lemon, cut in half, and some broiled oysters topped with finely chopped greens.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-pkfq/27hours-philadelphia-pkfq-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A birds-eye view of a cyclist riding down a paved path that is surrounded by grass and leafy trees. Along the path are illuminated lamp posts.Behind the trees is a grand, stone building with columns and many windows.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-jvmw/27hours-philadelphia-jvmw-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
Saturday
![A close-up view of a sandwich with egg, cheese, bacon and arugula on a white plate. In the background is a red-brick wall.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-jwbq/27hours-philadelphia-jwbq-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A close-up view of a sandwich with egg, cheese, bacon and arugula on a white plate. In the background is a red-brick wall.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-jwbq/27hours-philadelphia-jwbq-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![The interior of a store with sunshine streaming through the window. A mannequin facing the window wears a flowing dress and a wide-brim hat. A gold rack displays ceramics, including mugs. In the corner of the store is a tall cactus.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-fkqh/27hours-philadelphia-fkqh-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![The interior of a store with sunshine streaming through the window. A mannequin facing the window wears a flowing dress and a wide-brim hat. A gold rack displays ceramics, including mugs. In the corner of the store is a tall cactus.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-fkqh/27hours-philadelphia-fkqh-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A grand red-brick building with a clocktower that is surrounded by leafy trees. On the grounds in front of the building, two people walk towards the building, with one of them holding a dog on a leash.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-glfk/27hours-philadelphia-glfk-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A grand red-brick building with a clocktower that is surrounded by leafy trees. On the grounds in front of the building, two people walk towards the building, with one of them holding a dog on a leash.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-glfk/27hours-philadelphia-glfk-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![The interior of a restaurant with polished concrete floors and decorative knick-knacks on the walls and shelves. In the center of the photo is a long, high table, adorned with flowers in vases, where diners sit on stools.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-mhtf/27hours-philadelphia-mhtf-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![The interior of a restaurant with polished concrete floors and decorative knick-knacks on the walls and shelves. In the center of the photo is a long, high table, adorned with flowers in vases, where diners sit on stools.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-mhtf/27hours-philadelphia-mhtf-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![An urban park during the daytime. People sit or lie down in small groups on the grass. In the distance is a city skyline of tall buildings.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-pgvk/27hours-philadelphia-pgvk-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
Sunday
![The inside of a dilapidated prison hall. It is dark inside the tall, narrow space, even as sunlight is visible through ceiling windows. The doors to individual cells can be seen along the stretching hallway.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-qmwv/27hours-philadelphia-qmwv-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![The inside of a dilapidated prison hall. It is dark inside the tall, narrow space, even as sunlight is visible through ceiling windows. The doors to individual cells can be seen along the stretching hallway.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/04/27/multimedia/27hours-philadelphia-qmwv/27hours-philadelphia-qmwv-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)