SPRING MEN'S FASHION 2015

T's latest issue examines the many conflicting ideas at play in men's fashion and style today. No one embraced those contradictions more than our cover subject, the legendary Jean-Michel Basquiat: We peek inside his closely guarded notebooks and shine a light on the painter as you've never seen him before. Shayne Oliver, the Hood by Air designer who likely would have rolled in Basquiat's circle had he been born 20 years earlier, shares with us the many diverse influences behind his gender-fluid street wear. In an essay focusing on clothes like Oliver's, Jon Caramanica traces how rap icons such as Raekwon and Kanye West have influenced not only street fashion, but the runway as well. We've also dressed some of France's most talented men in some of the season's best clothes — proving that some things, like brooding-French-artist chic, never lose their appeal. Elsewhere, Andrew O'Hagan combs through the male overgrooming epidemic, looking for chaos amid the order; Jody Rosen travels to Ordos, China, one of the world's most famous ghost towns that wants to be so much more; the artist Pablo Bronstein takes us inside his home in Deal, England, where antique glamour and campy kitsch live in curious harmony; and Marilyn Manson and John Waters test out an urban scooter and one-legged pants, with predictably weird results. See all stories from this issue >>>

HIGHLIGHTS

The Forever Allure of French Guys

Some of France’s most talented men in some of the season’s best clothes.

Hooking Up

For years, the world of high fashion has ignored, flirted with and appropriated hip-hop. Finally, the style is as cool on the runway as it is on the street.

The Colossal Strangeness of China’s Most Excellent Tourist City

Ordos, like so many of the country’s hundreds of new towns, is famous for being empty — a symbol, some would say, of the hubris of rampant urbanization. But the few people who live there see it differently.

Spring’s Poetic Undertones

Men’s style is progressing toward a more delicate aesthetic, drom fitted tanks to foppish neckerchiefs.

General Electric

Sturdy stainless steel timepieces with retro manly appeal get a contemporary jolt from dark dials.

Grandmaster Sachs

With his handcrafted, fully functioning boomboxes, the artist Tom Sachs celebrates a bygone analog era, and reflects on what’s been lost now that all the world’s music can reside in our pockets.

Shayne Oliver’s Anything-Goes Ethos

For the gender-fluid mind behind Hood by Air — fashion’s current favorite street label — inspiration comes from his island childhood, Brooklyn dance clubs and his own spin on Warhol’s Factory.

David Letterman: A Look Back

A look back at his three-decade-long reign as late night’s curmudgeonly king.

Male Statuary, Illustrated

A series of paintings by Leanne Shapton based on the book ‘The Nude: A Study in Ideal Form.’

The Unknown Notebooks of Jean-Michel Basquiat

The personal writings and sketches of the late artist are expressions of 1980s downtown New York, and, perhaps, of his truest vision.

Gray Matter

The prolific documentarian Alex Gibney, who finds intrigue — and Oscar acclaim — in subjects rich in ambiguity, takes on the Church of Scientology.

The Baroque Anachronisms of Mr. Bronstein

In the English seaside town of Deal, Pablo Bronstein has created a home that revels in the artist’s favorite things: opulent furnishings, striking juxtapositions and fine examples of historical confusion.

Spring’s Lightweight Suits

Whether slim-cut or slightly slouchy, the new relaxed suiting features a construction that lets you cut loose, anywhere, anytime.

Denim, Remixed

These crisp trousers, flowy topcoats and fitted blazers make us see indigo in a whole new hue.

Vanity Clause

With the hysterical rise in men’s grooming practices, one writer asks: Are we plucking and primping ourselves into submission?

A Dual Review of What’s New Starring John Waters and Marilyn Manson

Marilyn Manson and John Waters soak up boozy shoes while considering one-legged pants and anime eyes.

A New Chapter

The artist Mark Hagen responds to the poet Michael Dickman’s rumination on fatherhood.

The Beat Goes On

Leather jackets worn with turtlenecks, white jeans paired with ankle boots — this season’s pieces recall the edgy bohemia of the East Village in the 1970s.