FALL WOMEN'S FASHION 2014

In our fall women's fashion issue, T celebrates the quiet rebels leading the way in fashion and the culture at large. We start with Sarah Burton, the shy and unassuming designer who is embracing her independent streak four years after the death of her mentor and close friend, Alexander McQueen. We remember the French icon Loulou de la Falaise, whose effervescent personality and inimitable style brought out the best in her close collaborator Yves Saint Laurent, and manifested in her own designs too. We visit Federico Forquet at home in Tuscany, where the former couturier long ago put fashion in the rearview to focus on a career in interior design and gardening. And in Elena Ferrante, a novelist so elusive that no one knows what she — or he, as the case may be — even looks like, we examine the nature of literary stardom and the value of unbiased self-reflection. Elsewhere, Claire Messud visits the provocative South African-born painter Marlene Dumas at her studio in Amsterdam; T’s critic-at-large Jody Rosen heads into the Mojave Desert to investigate the Integratron, a U.F.O.-like structure that serves as a Mecca for spiritual seekers; Jenna Lyons and Courtney Love rock out to Beats and try on the latest Dior heels; and a new generation of female directors step out from behind the camera, revealing the personal experiences and passion for original filmmaking that led them to take on the Hollywood status quo. See all stories from the issue >>

HIGHLIGHTS

Loulou de la Falaise: The Real Deal

Loulou de la Falaise was a French icon and an enduring muse to Yves Saint Laurent. With her unstudied style and indefatigable spirit, she also represented everything that is brilliant about fashion.

Vogue Magazine

A look at the facts and figures behind fashion’s foremost franchise.

Sign of the Times

A writer makes a case for the commercialization of high fashion.

Multimedia Feature: Welcome to the Integratron

A U.F.O.-like dome with sci-fi origins has become a mecca for spiritual seekers looking to zone out on its sound baths. One curious writer travels to the Mojave Desert to see what all the noise is about.

A Recipe for Happiness

Can a meal be more than just a delicious coming together of fine ingredients? Can it alter your feelings in predictive ways? The Michelin-starred chef Joël Robuchon and his neuropharmacologist have created dishes to cure what ails you. Plus: A trout recipe that will make you happier.

Marlene Dumas

One of the most provocative painters of the human form, the South African–born artist Marlene Dumas doesn’t match the stereotype of artist as solitary genius. Her way is chaotic, more responsive and uncertain — and that is her brilliance.

Who Is Elena Ferrante?

The writer known by that name has never been photographed or interviewed in person, but a collection of fiercely candid novels has earned her (him?) recognition as one of the keenest observers of Italian society. Three writers celebrate this talent.

The Moment

This season’s feeling of careless elegance doesn’t imply an inattention to detail. In fact, it requires it.

In Fashion | City Girl

An uncompromising youthquake revitalized the fall runways with collegiate starter jackets, short skirts and nubby sweaters that inspire a coltish confidence.

The L.A. Art Invasion

Sun-soaked isolation seems just the thing to spark inspiration. Plus: a primer on Los Angeles’s new artist arrivals.

The Genius Next Door

Shy, unassuming and nice, Sarah Burton, the Alexander McQueen designer, is everything that her magically haunting collections are not.

A Beautiful Mind

After a stunning career in fashion, Federico Forquet turned his life’s work toward making exquisite houses and gardens. His own in the Tuscan hills is both a sanctuary and a masterpiece.

Flipping the Script

No longer content just to be making movies, a new generation of critically heralded female directors is rivaling the male establishment at the box office — and redefining what it means to be a woman in Hollywood.

Prized Possession

High-gloss handbags and heels in a range of decadent colors are the most covetable accessories of the season.

The Invasion of the Flats

Who knew that the humblest shoe could become a symbol of power in the working world?

Art Market | The Not It Girl

At her gallery, Reena Spaulings Fine Art, the painter and performer Emily Sundblad is reviving the artistic spirit of downtown New York through creative collaboration — and a resistance to the cult of self-promotion.

A Dual Review of What’s New, Starring Jenna Lyons and Courtney Love

Courtney Love and Jenna Lyons opine on Dior heels, Diana Vreeland perfume and an arty dog magazine.

The Big Easy

Enveloping knits, dramatically long, loose and oversize, are fashion’s generous solution to the practicalities of a life on the go.

Brunch at Tiffany’s

As the storied jewelry house’s first female design director, Francesca Amfitheatrof is imbuing modern luxury with an unexpected hint of bohemianism — perhaps the result of her recent move to Brooklyn.

In the Air | Voluminous Forms

Designers are embracing expansive and exaggerated shapes, many of them inspired by the monolithic beauty of the natural world.