Bishop Lifting

Our shop guys say this is their absolute favorite kind of sling end to make. Of course, it involves melting zinc with propane-fueled fire, banging on things, and a high chance of being burned — what's not to love? Don't worry! Our team has all the proper protective gear, fire suppressant, and a first aid kit nearby. 😉 We'll send out some more curated, detailed posts of this process later. For now, we thought you'd enjoy seeing the brief overview: 1. Clean and flower the wire rope ends thoroughly so the melted zinc can fill the voids. 2. Fit the socket over the flowered end, seal with a special putty to keep the zinc from leaking out, and sprinkle with a compound designed to help the zinc stick to the wire rope and socket. 3. Pre-heat the socket to remove any moisture in the metal. 4. Pour pre-melted zinc into the socket, tap to remove bubbles and help everything settle (like pouring concrete). 5. Remove the putty and use a steel brush to remove any spilled zinc. 6. Dip entire end into hot tar to seal everything in and protect against the elements during service. How cool — or perhaps HOT — is that?! #RiggingEquipment #LiftingSolutions #TrusttheLift

Let's do a quick recap of the pros and cons for the three main types of wire rope clips — malleable, forged, and Fist Grips.® Malleable clip: light duty, affordable. May not be appropriate in a commercial application, but around your house, on the farm, ranch, ... you can use this in a lot of different applications and save some money. Traditional forged clip (U-bolt and saddle style): heavy duty and considered the standard by most contractors, yet they are more expensive. They're very easy to find and the installation is about the same as a malleable clip. Due to their being stronger, you may not need as many clips, which will help balance the added cost of the higher quality clip. Regardless, if you're buying from a reputable brand like Crosby, the price is going to go up. Keep in mind this in exchange for the peace of mind of knowing you have a reliable wire rope clip that will perform as expected. Fist Grips®: heavy duty clips that you cannot install upside-down! This is a major issue with traditional wire rope clips, so it's great to have an option that is more likely to be installed properly. The main problem with G-429 Fist Grips is they're even more expensive and not all rigging shops stock them. They're just not quite as popular as a standard wire rope clip like the G-450. #RiggingEquipment #WireRopeClips #TrusttheLift

Not all rigging equipment is big and heavy. Sometimes you just need the basic, "bread and butter" stuff, like these 3/4" Screw Pin Bow Shackles that just arrived in our shipping bay. They're the Van Beest Green Pin G-4161. They have a 4.75 ton Working Load Limit at a 6:1 Safety Factor and are made of hot-dipped carbon steel with a galvanized finish. Being upset-forged, they also have a smooth surface that causes less wear and tear on slings. They are a solid choice for your everyday, lifts. #LiftingSolutions #RiggingEquipment #TrusttheLift

Do you know how to install a Regular or Shouldered Eye Bolt? Both types are meant to pass through a hole that is already drilled. They do not thread into the hole — rather they are secured by a nut on the opposite side. 1. Drill a hole completely through the anchoring material, using a drill bit that is the same size as the shank diameter. 2. Push eye bolt shank through the drilled hole. The bolt should go through the hole easily, but also maintain a tight fit through the material for maximum contact with the bolt. Shoulder eye bolts rely on a snug fit, particularly with angular lifts. Your eye bolt must be long enough to go all the way through your material with enough room on the other side so the nut is secure. 3. Twist the nut onto the threads where the bolt exits the hole (thread end). Notes: You want the threads to start just before the bolt exits the hole on the other side, so you can fully tighten the eye bolt. If there is not enough room for the nut, your bolt is too short. There are several conditional recommendations provided by the manufacturer — in this case, Crosby — that provide instructions for specific conditions and acceptable configurations. For example, if your threads don't allow you to fully tighten the nut, it is permissible to use washers as spacers. Always follow the instructions provided! 4. Fully tighten the nut using a wrench or other tool until the eye sits snuggly against the material you're anchoring to. Notes: If the eye doesn't snug up even after the nut cannot tighten further, check whether a bur on the shank or other obstruction is keeping it from properly seating. If it has a shoulder (also called a collar), the base of the collar should be flush (or slightly countersunk) to ensure full bearing (full contact) on the anchor material. This extra surface area is what enables shoulder eye bolts to handle angular loads (but you'll still see a 75% reduction in Working Load Limit at 90 degrees). Do you want more information about how eye bolt WLL changes with load angle? Let us know in the comments below and we'll do a post on it! #EyeBolts #RiggingEquipment #TrusttheLift

Welded alloy chain slings are the oldest type of chain slings made, being used for super heavy-duty applications such as steel mills, forging plants, and other rugged applications. Most people know that we make our own slings here at Bishop Lifting. Many wire rope and mechanically coupled chain slings show up in our daily posts because that's some of our highest volume work. But did you know that we also do our own welding? We can make quad-leg slings from scratch, including the master link assembly! Making everything from scratch, we control every detail, from the original source material through manufacturing and testing. This is just one of the many ways we make sure you can Trust the Lift. #LiftingSolutions #RiggingEquipment #TrusttheLift

Check out our new YouTube video! What you need to know about Ratchet Straps. 👀 We’ve just released another YouTube video in our Essential Rigging Tools series! Learn the ins and outs of using ratchet straps, including choosing the right size and fittings for your specific needs. Check it out now: https://hubs.ly/Q02HyHhJ0 Whether you’re a seasoned professional or new to rigging, this video is packed with valuable tidbits to help you ensure safety and efficiency in your transportation operations. If you like what we’ve been putting out, subscribe to our YouTube channel, @bishoplifting7379, for more expert tips and tutorials! #RachetStraps #RiggingEquipment #TrusttheLift

Have you ever tried uncoiling and recoiling a hose? If you have, you know that there's an extra step required to prevent the hose from kinking — all those twists don't like to straighten and be reorganized without a fight. Due to the twisting during manufacturing, you run into a similar problem with synthetic rope! This is 1-1/2in Blue Steel. It's made of Polyolefin, which has several advantages over regular Polypropylene: - Low stretch and approximately 35-40% stronger. - Superior resistance to UV, rot, mildew and most common chemicals. - Very strong, easy to handle, and offers twice the wear life. - Floats on water. We could run this rope at high speed and call it good, but we’d rather avoid twisting and damaging the rope. So, we place the master reel on a spindle, then one person runs the spooler while the other rotates the master reel. This helps compensate for the twist in the rope as it is taken off the master reel and wound around the new, smaller spool. It's just one of those little extra things we do to make sure we can cut your rope orders to length while maintaining our break-neck fulfillment pace. 😅 #LiftingSolutions #RiggingEquipment #SoftRope #TrusttheLift

Have you ever tried uncoiling and recoiling a hose? If you have, you know that there's an extra step required to prevent the hose from kinking — all those twists don't like to straighten and be reorganized without a fight. Due to the twisting during manufacturing, you run into a similar problem with synthetic rope! This is 1-1/2in Blue Steel. It's made of Polyolefin, which has several advantages over regular Polypropylene: - Low stretch and approximately 35-40% stronger. - Superior resistance to UV, rot, mildew and most common chemicals. - Very strong, easy to handle, and offers twice the wear life. - Floats on water. We could run this rope at high speed and call it good, but we’d rather avoid twisting and damaging the rope. So, we place the master reel on a spindle, then one person runs the spooler while the other rotates the master reel. This helps compensate for the twist in the rope as it is taken off the master reel and wound around the new, smaller spool. It's just one of those little extra things we do to make sure we can cut your rope orders to length while maintaining our break-neck fulfillment pace. 😅 #LiftingSolutions #RiggingEquipment #SoftRope #TrusttheLift

Have you seen how two-leg bridle wire rope slings are made? Precision is key when making multi-leg bridle slings. These slings are made to very specific lengths for customers, so specific calculations are made to ensure the length is correct. Splicing these slings is no small feat. It’s more complex than eye-and-eye slings due to the need to splice around the masterlink and around thimbles. This process requires two sets of hands, lots of strength, and years of experience to handle the heavy-duty thimbles and large rope. Trust these pros with your rigging supplies! #WireRopeSling #RiggingEssentials #TrusttheLift

Knowing the limitations of a piece of hardware is at least half of the safety battle, and standard eye bolts are a perfect example — people think, "It's an eye bolt, you screw it in, use it to secure things, what's the big deal?" Let's stop and talk about safety here — there are a couple issues with that statement: 1. Regular eye bolts don't screw into the material they're anchoring to. They are designed to be inserted through a pre-drilled hole, then secured using a nut on the back side. The threads are not designed for direct threading, and using them this way may result in a bolt that is not fully anchored. If you want threads that go directly into the anchor, you want a "machinery" eye bolt. 2. Several of the eye bolts available at standard hardware stores are light duty, "turned eye" bolts — these are the ones that look like they're a straight rod of steel that has been bent at one end to form an open eye — often have a Working Load Limit (WLL) in the range of 30 lbs to 300 lbs. Many people use light duty (turned) eye bolts for securing things like fence railings or clotheslines, but there also are lift-rated (forged steel) eye bolts available for lifting applications. If you're using eye bolts for a lifting task, or if your application would potentially have a strong force on the bolt, don't use a turned eye. Instead, find a forged eye bolt and check the WLL to ensure it will be strong enough for your intended use. 3. If you're lifting with a lift-rated, forged, regular eye bolt (one that doesn't have a collar on it), the ONLY suitable lift is an in-line lift. Do not apply an angular load. If you're doing an angular lift, grab a collared eye bolt, a swivel hoist ring, or a specialty item designed for angular loading. And then, be sure to account for a dramatic reduction in the eye bolt’s strength when lifting at an angle. 4. If need be, go with a hybrid lifting point (such as the Crosby Slide-Loc) or even a swivel hoist ring. With such devices, angular loading is not a concern. They are more expensive, but they provide greater safety and peace of mind. As with any lifting hardware product, matching the right item to your job is absolutely critical for safety. Stay vigilant! #LiftingSolutions #RiggingEquipment #TrusttheLift