Ask a stylist: how do I find a jacket that suits my shape?

Is there a jacket that suits all women? I’m struggling to find one for myself — I have a full bust and a tummy by the way

Jackets are one of the most useful pieces in your wardrobe. I own more than 17, and I wear one most days. They’re versatile and great for covering bellies, busts and arms and for flattering rounded shoulders. Unfortunately, this does not mean that they are easy to find! If we were all using tailors to create bespoke jackets then things would be a lot more straightforward — and as it is the most sustainable option, please consider it. The Seam will hook you up with a tried and tested tailor in your area. They’ve all been fully assessed so you know you’re getting a reliable service — many of the tailors on their books are ex-couture.

As to that “flatters all” style, this is tricky to answer. There is a shape that works for both straight and curvy, which is a simple, single-breasted, one-button, semi-fitted, classic blazer style. The Etiennette from Theory is the closest to perfect you can get but it’s best on taller figures. The brand has been producing a version of this for many years.

With off-the-peg there are a few things to understand. The line of the revers (in layman’s terms, the shaped lapels on your jacket) or opening creates a vertical line that the eye duly follows down the body. This streamlines everything effectively, shrinking the focus into the middle section of your torso and making it appear slimmer and longer than it actually is. Keep all detail minimal for further enhancement. This is the reason that the jacket, as a single piece, is so useful.

Let’s tackle that tummy first. What sort of stomach are we dealing with here? If it’s very wide and round you will want soft fabrics that mould and flex around your body. You don’t want to be pulling and fussing when it doesn’t sit right. If you are more angular, but have a belly, then you can go for a more structured shape and material.

For those with more curve to the body, softer fabrics are best. Look at jersey (for a more casual look), crepe, silks, light flannels and wool mixes. Seek out vented backs or sides as they give more room for movement and avoid bulky pockets. These details will also accommodate a wider bottom whilst you’re at it. Max Mara Leisure’s jersey jacket is super useful as a casual option (shame the label didn’t do it in lots of colours), but you could smarten up with a winter white sweater underneath or black or navy for contrast (£205, gb.maxmara.com).

For a relaxed-smart look, Paul Smith’s jersey jacket is a gem (£555, paulsmith.com). Don’t wear it zipped up on the chest with a full bust, unless you want to look like Dolly Parton. The significantly more expensive Max Mara sleek bomber pictured below features a flattering double zip. Zip up from the hem and take it to the smallest part of the waist — this can shrink the size of the tummy by “slicing” through it — or just leave it unzipped. When seen from the side you won’t notice the tummy.

For stiffer fabrics and cuts, Balmain does one of the best shapes out there (and in a refreshingly broad range of sizes). The smart padded shoulder is balanced by the kick out from the waist and it’s a hell of a waist creator for those who are straight through the middle — which, in my experience, is most women over 45. It also helps a sloping or rounded shoulder to look straighter and more poised (£2,050, matchesfashion.com). It’s a top-end luxury item, but for a similar look try Veronica Beard.

Please note, for a large chest these double-breasted styles can be trickier. You need unfussy designs to skim over the bust. Opt for a simple, open shape (or the edge-to-edge Max Mara, above). Stella McCartney and Totême both offer a clean line, no button edge-to-edge blazer this season too (Stella McCartney £1,295, selfridges.com). Or look to Eileen Fisher, the queen of the clean line, and her relaxed look ($199 on sale, eileenfisher.com). Try a couple of sizes as you want the jacket to remain neat but not tight.

One of my big bugbears as a stylist is the crazy tight sleeves out there. As the size goes up, the garment won’t necessarily address the fact that you are likely to have a curvier arm in larger sizes. Margaret Howell sleeves tend to be roomier than most — try its velvet blazer, pictured above, for some relaxed luxury. The cut is straight so it’s easiest for straight line figures.

Wear all of these jackets with jersey tees or simple sweaters and don’t force them over anything too thick or bulky. Whichever jacket you choose, ensure it’s long enough to cover the tummy on the side view and roomy enough for you to stretch your arms up and across the body without impeding blood flow. Good luck!

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