What to wear to the office when it’s too hot to wear anything

I live in New York, where temperatures are regularly above 29C — and the subway gets much hotter. How can I beat the heat and still look appropriately dressed in the office?

If you are commuting to the office then you need a space to store a few essentials. Even if you’re hot desking, try and commandeer an area where you can keep an emergency cover-up capsule. I am not talking woollen hats and gloves, more like a jacket and a nifty piece of knitwear.

If space is tight, then blazers and knits can sit happily on the back of the chair and I’d try a summer wool for the jacket and a merino or cotton cashmere mix for the knit.

What’s your office weather zone? Is it freezing due to aggressive air con or more like a hothouse? My first job was in a prefab building with a corrugated iron roof (fashion is so glamorous) which was like a barracks in the depths of winter and a tin can in the summer.

For hot offices choose natural fabrics, longer lengths and clever cuts. If you hate your arms, which, sadly, so many women do, don’t suffer in a full sleeve.

Firstly, look for a lower armhole. I realise that this throws up the issue of the dreaded underarm pudge — but it’s worse if an armhole is too tight and digs in. A lower armhole allows more air around the armpit. Apologies if this is unsavoury, but it prevents sweat patches, makes your clothes last longer and you don’t feel so restricted. If you go too low you will see your bra. If this is the case, you may want to wear a bralette or simply choose a bra colour similar to the top or dress. Sleeves matter — choose an open cap, floaty short or roomy elbow sleeve — blessed ventilation and a flattering cut in one go.

For offices where a suit is encouraged, choose cotton, linen or natural fibre mixes. Bottega Veneta does several linen blend trousers you can pair with a jacket or a simple silk shirt or tee. Vince, The Row and MaxMara also have smart summer trousers in cool fabrics. Ralph Lauren has this beautiful soft linen suit.

If your office dress code is more relaxed, Three Graces’s classic Clarissa in cotton poplin is perfect for coverage. I’ve also fallen head over heels for two-year-old Australian brand Palma Martin, which combines old world nostalgia with a modern lens. Its Unchartered cotton dress creates a sculpted waist whether you have one or not, and the cut of the sleeve allows air to circulate. Jersey too is so comfortable — Tory Burch’s Belted Striped Dress has a square-cut sleeve and can be dressed up with a heeled sandal (£272 on sale, farfetch.com).

Building an outfit around one tailored piece helps to keep it smart. During mid-June’s heatwave, I selected a Hanro vest layered under a much-loved Margaret Howell linen waistcoat. I added a pair of elasticated waist, wide-leg silk trousers from Markus Lupfer and a flat Marni sandal. Presto! A great outfit which kept me cool and undeterred by the Sahara-like conditions. It’s easy to dress this type of trouser up or down, working seamlessly with trainers and a white tee or a strappy sandal, smart blazer and a silk top.

Pair this camel Veronica Beard waistcoat with white, cream, black or red trousers for a sophisticated way to stay cool. Or go for optic white and layer a coloured vest underneath (SIR Clemence buttoned waistcoat, £223, farfetch.com).

For trousers, channel the sunset with orange silks from Dorothee Schumacher. They are elasticated at the back and flat on the front so they’re comfort personified (£560, mytheresa.com). Or Totême’s signature PJ trouser, which suits a larger frame.

If your place of work is colder than a Starbucks, then build layers. Merino is a devilishly clever yarn as it’s adaptable and does what’s called in the trade, “cool/warm” — meaning that it can work with whatever temperature you are. Let’s say you commute on a warm day in a sleeveless cotton top, a light cotton trouser and smart sandals, you can then add a simple crew or V-neck merino to protect you from that ice cold blast in the office. I really like the ease of Jigsaw’s relaxed sweater (£110, jigsaw-online.com)

If it’s arctic, use a light cashmere (Zadig and Voltaire’s “Brumy” is a good bet and currently on sale, £199, zadig-et-voltaire.com) or throw a chunky cardigan over the top. Be careful here though, cardigans, à la mode as they are, are still tricky. You want Sofia Coppola not nosy neighbour. Wear a lower cut top or silky shirt underneath, roll the sleeve and give it a bit of a tuck. NavyGrey’s classic cardigan is easy to wear and Charl’s new unisex style, Codling, is a light alpaca with just the right level of slouch. &Daughter and LouLou Studio are also worth a look.

Instead of the ubiquitous trainer for commuting you need an easy walking sandal. I don’t mean an actual walking sandal — we aren’t ramblers. What you’re after is a sporty, supportive sole and an upper that doesn’t look like something your dad would wear gardening. Look to the sports brands for these. I buy an Adidas or a Nike sports sandal every few years. I like this style from Nike (£91, farfetch.com).

I don’t often recommend buying shoes second-hand but if they are in mint condition, like these Oran sandals from Hermès, then it can be worth trawling. This Jil Sander pair has deliciously thick straps and will lend an elegant finish to any summer outfit.

Whatever you do, do not succumb to those tempting shapeless linen dresses that look like a discarded dishcloth at the end of the day. They do nothing for anyone.

Anna Berkeley is a London-based personal stylist and style columnist for FT Weekend. She has worked in the fashion industry for more than 25 years, previously as a buyer for Selfridges and Prada, and a consultant for Margaret Howell. Every month, she answers readers’ questions about fashion and what to wear

Follow @financialtimesfashion on Instagram to find out about our latest stories first

Letter in response to this column:

‘What to wear in the office’ doesn’t apply to hot NYC / From Alice Bray, New York City, New York, US