Ask a Stylist: how do I update my denim for autumn?

I haven’t bought new jeans in years, and I want to invest in a smarter pair (or two) for autumn. What styles, washes etc should I consider?

I am a massive denim fan — ever since I pulled on my first pair of indigo drainpipes on my bedroom floor aged eight. The ability of a jean to cut through dress codes is second to none, but jeans shopping is hard work.

If you’re venturing into stores — which I think is best here — arm yourself with a positive mindset, a bottle of water and acres of time. Do not attempt to shop for anything else and don’t take anyone with you. You need to conserve your energy. I’d recommend Selfridges for the sheer volume of brands in one spot or Trilogy, a denim specialist with stores across London.

Call me old-fashioned, but for a smart look I favour a darker wash, no rips, no fancy bits, clean, sharp and cut to perfection. Straight legs suit most body shapes. I particularly like 7 For All Mankind’s Soho Classic (£210, 7forallmankind.co.uk), which with 2 per cent elastane have a bit of give that makes them more comfortable.

Choose a mid waist (lots of mid waists around now, thankfully) if you are roughly the same length through the body as you are through the legs. If you wear jeans to work then you could pair these with a shirt for September. Call it your back-to-school look.

The oversized shirt style from Rise & Fall is great for a broader shoulder, as the drop shoulder softens the width. They are roomy so you could easily size down (£85, riseandfall.co). If you have a narrow shoulder and smaller bust, opt for a structured puff and frill design from Isabel Marant Étoile (£325, harveynichols.com) and then you are officially double denimed. 

If you’re curvy then I would wholeheartedly recommend Good American jeans. The brand is size inclusive, offering size 0 to 32 plus, with prices starting from £83. I have bought these with so many clients (do keep your eye on The Outnet for bargains from this label and, for that matter, most of the designer jeans brands). I especially love its boot cut or flare on curvy hips, bums and thighs — go full length for instant balancing.

Use this faded black pair with a heel (sorry, but they do look best with a heel, otherwise you are squandering all that leg lengthening). You could try a sandal now, such as Stuart Weitzman’s NearlyNude pair (£440, net-a-porter.com) and add a sock or a pair of tights later in the year. Pop on a vest (Toteme’s racer is fabulous: £80, net-a-porter.com) and add an open-neck sweater, sweatshirt or hoodie or even a black leather jacket on top (AllSaints, Toteme, The Attico and Saint Laurent are all worth a look).

Alternatively, you could look at a vintage pair. Pin Denim will do all the sourcing for you to find your perfect fit or go along to Picknweight in Covent Garden and try on its preloved styles. This is one place where preloved is often better than new — just watch that they haven’t bagged at the knee or seat.

Consider tailoring denim too. Always get your tailor to fit on the widest part first, whether that’s your legs, bottom or tummy, and then tailor the waist or side seam depending on your needs. Please check that your tailor has experience reworking denim.

Although I generally favour the designer denim brands, because they are expertly cut and well made, some of the bridge clothing brands also do a good jean. Raey, Matches Fashion’s in-house label, has been running the Push style for a few seasons and I often reach for these as a good smart option (£160, matchesfashion.com). They run neat on the hip, though, so are better for narrow hips. Add heels, low courts or a slingback. Alexa Chung always wears a jean in this simple way, and it looks perfect. You could try the Aeyde slingback (£345, matchesfashion.com) and wear a simple black tee (how about Rag & Bone’s easy tee, £90, harveynichols.com) on top — very French, very chic. As the weather cools you can throw on a knitted tank, a blazer or a slouchy cardigan as needed.

For a good in-between style that nods to a combat but without all the bulk, Canton denim at Margaret Howell offers a wide leg indigo jean — these just get better and better with age (£285, margarethhowell.co.uk). Tove’s Linn relaxed wide leg works as well with a trainer as with an elegant ankle boot or low heel (£260, tove-studio.com).

This season it really is all about the baggy, but you will be harder pressed to look super-smart. If you want to dip your toe in, the look you are after is slouchy, not a Hobbit drowning in denim. Agolde has long been a favourite of mine; its low-rise baggy is spot on (£225, matchesfashion.com). Keep the top half neat and fitted. Please note that if you have a long body you will need to wear a high heel with these to rebalance everything. Or just choose the high-waist model from Raey instead (£160, matchesfashion.com). Add a kitten heel from Rupert Sanderson for a full noughties look (£625, rupertsanderson.com). Happy hunting!