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Japanese Soul Cooking: Ramen, Tonkatsu, Tempura, and More from the Streets and Kitchens of Tokyo and Beyond [A Cookbook] Hardcover – November 5, 2013
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Move over, sushi. It’s time for gyoza, curry, tonkatsu, and furai. These icons of Japanese comfort food cooking are the hearty, flavor-packed, craveable dishes you’ll find in every kitchen and street corner hole-in-the-wall restaurant in Japan.
In Japanese Soul Cooking, Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat introduce you to this irresistible, homey style of cooking. As you explore the range of exciting, satisfying fare, you may recognize some familiar favorites, including ramen, soba, udon, and tempura. Other, lesser known Japanese classics, such as wafu pasta (spaghetti with bold, fragrant toppings like miso meat sauce), tatsuta-age (fried chicken marinated in garlic, ginger, and other Japanese seasonings), and savory omelets with crabmeat and shiitake mushrooms will instantly become standards in your kitchen as well. With foolproof instructions and step-by-step photographs, you’ll soon be knocking out chahan fried rice, mentaiko spaghetti, saikoro steak, and more for friends and family.
Ono and Salat’s fascinating exploration of the surprising origins and global influences behind popular dishes is accompanied by rich location photography that captures the energy and essence of this food in everyday life, bringing beloved Japanese comfort food to Western home cooks for the first time.
- Print length256 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherTen Speed Press
- Publication dateNovember 5, 2013
- Dimensions7.74 x 1.02 x 9.27 inches
- ISBN-101607743523
- ISBN-13978-1607743521
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Editorial Reviews
Amazon.com Review
Featured Recipes from Japanese Soul Cooking
Download the recipe for Classic Tonkatsu Download the recipes for Japanese-Style Tartar Sauce and Tomato Salada Download the recipe for Vegetable Tempura Download the recipe for Kitsune UdonReview
“Sushi? Bah! Japanese food is so much more than raw fish, and this book is a joyful (and useful!) exploration of the earthy, fatty, meaty, rib-sticking, lip-smacking fare—the noodles and curries and deep-fried delights—that millions of Japanese depend on every day. I get hungry just thinking about it.” —Matt Gross, editor, BonAppetit.com
“Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat bring to mouthwatering life a fascinating story: how Western influences opened up a nation’s taste buds and created a new Japanese cuisine of modern comfort food classics. Anyone obsessed with a steaming bowl of ramen, light-as-air tempura, or the perfect gyoza will find that there’s all that—and more—right here, just waiting to be cooked and devoured." —Joe Yonan, author of Eat Your Vegetables and food and travel editor of the Washington Post
About the Author
HAARIS SALAT's stories about food and culture have appeared in the New York Times, Saveur, and Gourmet. In 2012, Salat opened the Japanese comfort food restaurant Ganso in Brooklyn (gansonyc.com). He is the author, with Takashi Yagihashi, of Takashi’s Noodles.
Together, Ono and Salat are the authors of Japanese Hot Pots and The Japanese Grill.
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
Let’s start with a groundbreaking moment back in 1872, when Emperor Meiji of Japan did something no other ruler of that country had done for a thousand years, namely, bite into a juicy hunk of meat in public. That simple act stunned his subjects—and forever changed the course of Japanese culture. It gave birth to a new kind of cooking in Japan, a new kind of hearty, rib-sticking comfort food cooking that’s beloved there to this day. It’s a world apart from traditional Japanese standards like miso soup, grilled fish, and pickled vegetables, and it’s the amazing—and surprising—cooking that we celebrate in this book.
But how could a singular chomp shake up an entire country?
Nineteen years earlier, in 1853, American warships had suddenly appeared in the Japanese port of Yokohama. Until then, the country’s leaders had sealed off Japan from the rest of the world for more than two hundred years, during which time Japanese couldn’t leave on pain of death. But while Japan faced inward those two centuries, America and European nations exploded into the most powerful economic and military powers on earth. So when Yankee warships showed up, and then demanded Japan open their doors to trade—or else—the Japanese had little choice but to accept.
Soon more Westerners planted themselves in Japan. Their arrival triggered a profound upheaval in the country that led to the formation of a modern state under the emperor, who was determined to launch an industrial revolution and build a modern military just like in the West.
Foreigners arriving in Japan brought with them strange and new ingredients, dishes, and eating habits—many of these centered on consuming meat. Up to then, meat eating in Japan was taboo, actually banned by Buddhist edict for a millennium. During their period of isolation, Japanese relied primarily on fish, vegetables, tofu, and traditional seasonings like dashi, miso, and soy sauce. But the emperor and his minions credited meat and dairy eating for the strapping physiques of the Westerners, who towered over Japanese at the time. So they urged Japanese to consume meat and other Western foods. The emperor’s very public meat encounter followed, and soon after that, in 1873, an official banquet was thrown in Japan for a visiting Italian royal, where, for the first time, this formal meal was prepared entirely of French cuisine.
These seminal events got the Western cuisine ball rolling, and before long, eating Western-style cuisine became a powerful symbol of modernity in Japan.
In the late nineteenth century, Western-style restaurants began to appear in Japan, like Seiyo-ken (“Western House”), which opened its doors in Tokyo in 1872. At the same time, the Japanese military began adopting Western-style foods. From these beginnings, ordinary Japanese began to learn of this new style of eating. Chefs, food companies, and cooks began to adapt these dishes to Japanese tastes, mixing and matching both Western and local ingredients, such as butter and soy sauce. Within a few decades, the mass media, especially women’s magazines and radio shows, began featuring this cooking. What started as restaurant fare, like tonkatsu, or military chow, like curry, began to filter into homes across Japan. By the first half of the twentieth century, Chinese and Korean dishes like ebi chili, bulgogi, and chahan, also adapted to Japanese tastes, joined Western cooking in this culinary march. And in the years after World War II, Americans occupying Japan added their own unique food influences, including Japanese-style (wafu) pasta.
The embrace of foreign food evolved in Japan into a parallel cuisine, comfort food cooking that became as beloved as traditional Japanese fare. This modern style of eating picked up steam as Japan became increasingly urbanized, and we consider even stalwart dishes like soba, udon, and tempura to be a part of it.
What fascinates us, as you’ll read in the pages that follow, are how so many of the dishes we describe began life as restaurant cooking, but then were quickly embraced by home cooks. And even today, these dishes are enjoyed both at neighborhood eateries and at the dining table. And that’s key. Because, as you’ll see in the pages that follow, these dishes are as delicious and amazing as they are simple and easy to whip up.
We organize our book by greatest hits, so soon you’ll be swooning over ramen, gyoza, curry, tonkatsu, furai, okonomiyaki, wafu pasta, and all the other dishes we introduce here, just like Japanese everywhere. Packed with flavor, easy to cook, and totally irresistible, these recipes will have you at the first bite. Enjoy!
------------------------------------------
Ramen Soup and Chashu
Master Recipe
A round of applause goes to Tadashi for creating a home cook’s version of ramen soup from scratch. As we mentioned earlier, this recipe is Tadashi’s adaptation of Tokyo’s prototypical clean, fragrant ramen soup. Note that we cook the pork shoulder for chashu along with the stock ingredients. Chashu is slow-braised meat that’s simmered until tender. It’s then sliced and laid on top of ramen noodles. The way we cook it, in the soup, is the way real ramen joints do—a one-two punch that adds richness and flavor to both the soup and the tender pork. You can prepare a batch of ramen soup ahead of time, and keep it in the freezer for up to one month. For the chashu, fresh pork belly or pork loin also works great.
Makes 2 quarts
2 pounds chicken bones (bones and carcass)
1��2 ounce ginger, skin left on
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 pound boneless pork shoulder (one piece, ask your butcher to tie it, if needed)
3 quarts water
1 scallion
1⁄2 small carrot (about 2 ounces)
Rinse the chicken bones well under cold running water. Crush the ginger by placing a kitchen knife over the ginger, and press down on the knife with your palm. Repeat for the garlic. Add all the ingredients to a large stockpot, and place on a burner over high heat. When the liquid boils, reduce the heat and simmer uncovered. Skim off any scum that accumulates on the surface and discard. Simmer for about 2 hours, until the soup reduces to 2 quarts. Remove the pork shoulder and set aside for chashu. (If you’re not using it right away, store it in the refrigerator.) Strain the soup through a cheesecloth-lined colander or fine-mesh sieve, discarding the remaining ingredients.
All-Chicken Variation Substitute 1 pound of boneless chicken for the pork shoulder (we prefer dark meat, but white meat is fine, too). Use this chicken for chashu in the recipes that follow.
Product details
- Publisher : Ten Speed Press; 8.11.2013 edition (November 5, 2013)
- Language : English
- Hardcover : 256 pages
- ISBN-10 : 1607743523
- ISBN-13 : 978-1607743521
- Item Weight : 1.95 pounds
- Dimensions : 7.74 x 1.02 x 9.27 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #16,248 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #5 in Japanese Cooking, Food & Wine
- #12 in Soul Food Cooking, Food & Wine
- #16 in Gastronomy Essays (Books)
- Customer Reviews:
About the authors
TADASHI ONO
Tadashi Ono is a celebrated chef who has won plaudits for both his Japanese and French cooking in The New York Times, Gourmet, Food & Wine and other publications. Born and raised in Tokyo, Tadashi began training as a chef at the age of sixteen. He moved to Los Angeles in the eighties, cooking at the innovative French-Japanese fusion restaurant Le Petite Chaya and the legendary L'Orangerie.
Relocating to New York, he became the executive chef of La Caravelle, one of America's top French restaurants. After nine years there, Tadashi felt the pull of his Japanese cooking roots and opened up the fine dining restaurant Sono. In 2003 he launched Matsuri, where he introduced vibrant, modern Japanese cooking to wide acclaim. Tadashi is also the coauthor of "Japanese Hot Pots," (Ten Speed Press) a cookbook about Japan's beloved comfort food, which will be published in October 2009. Besides cooking, Tadashi is an accomplished potter and avid student of Japanese food culture. He considers the legendary Japanese chef, ceramicist and author Rosanjin his mentor and inspiration. For more information about Chef Tadashi Ono, cooking demonstrations or to read about Tadashi's Blog visit www.matsurinyc.com.
Harris Salat's stories have appeared in The New York Times, Saveur, Gourmet, Salon, and other publications. After stints as a dairy farmer, bread baker and cook, Harris turned to journalism in the early 90s. He reported for Associated Press radio, produced TV news at CBS News and CNBC, and worked in internet media before pursuing his taste for storytelling, travel and good eats.
Harris has become increasingly drawn to Japanese cuisine over the past two decades, traveling to Japan and writing about the food culture, and training in Japanese restaurant kitchens in New York, Tokyo, Kyoto and Fukuoka.
Harris is the co-author of "Takashi's Noodles" (Ten Speed Press), "Japanese Hot Pots" (Ten Speed Press), "The Japanese Grill" (Ten Speed Press) and "Japanese Soul Cooking" (Ten Speed Press), and has written numerous food stories for Saveur, Gourmet and The New York Times.
Follow Harris on Instagram: @japanesefoodreport
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Learn more how customers reviews work on AmazonCustomers say
Customers find the recipes concise and nice. They appreciate the well-organized, enjoyable introductions and clear directions. They also appreciate the historical context and writing style. Readers say the recipes turn out fantastic. Opinions are mixed on the ingredients, with some finding them readily available and others saying they're not.
AI-generated from the text of customer reviews
Customers find the recipes in the book concise, easy to follow, and amazing. They also say the food tastes good and is hard to screw up.
"It's one of my favorite cookbooks. I love the recipes in here. They're easy to follow. Step-by-step instructions and measurements...." Read more
"This turned out not to be for me, but the recipes are amazing if truly authentic Japanese cooking is what you are looking for." Read more
"This book is packed with master recipes (the basic "How to's") and variations that I plan to try as many if as I can.Vibrant pictures...." Read more
"...The book is very detailed and in depth about Japanese cooking, How it is an art, And even what to expect in a ramen restaurant...." Read more
Customers find the photos in the book nice, instructional, and legit.
"...Vibrant pictures. 10/10 would gift to someone who wants to cook Japanese food beyond sushi." Read more
"...I love how they have pictures for a lot of them and the directions are so easy to follow...." Read more
"Tons of good recipes, beautiful graphic design. The pictures and writing tell me not only about the food, but also the culture associated with it...." Read more
"...It's entertaining with all of the beautiful photos as well as educational in that it teaches you specific terms and components of Japanese cuisine...." Read more
Customers find the book's complexity level to be enjoyable with good, clear directions, and descriptions. They also say the book is organized perfectly, making it really accessible. Readers also say it teaches the basic and fundamentals of dishes and recipes.
"...It's not for the average lazy cook by any means, But it is a very good read non the less...." Read more
"...This book makes it really accessible...." Read more
"...Sonoko Sakai, but "Japanese Soul Cooking" is much more useful and clearly written IMO." Read more
"...The contents of the book are great. The way the book is organized is perfect. The recipes are amazing...." Read more
Customers find the historical context of the book interesting, saying it tells the history of the food. They also appreciate the great mix of recipes, background info, culture, and more.
"...It has taught me the rudimentaries of Japanese food while also encouraging a further look into what makes up the cuisine of Japan." Read more
"...to understanding accessible Japanese food - including an interesting historical perspective...." Read more
"...of very interesting and unique recipes, and many of them include interesting historical background, such as the Japanese Navy curry contests...." Read more
"This book is pretty informative on Japanese cooking. It goes into a brief detail on the history of the dish. The directions are easy to follow." Read more
Customers find the writing style amazingly delicious.
"...I made the Retro Curry yesterday and it was the best Japanese curry I’ve had since visiting Osaka last year...." Read more
"...Flavors are spot-on. Lived in Japan for 8 years and I miss this kind of homey fried food/rice bowls...." Read more
"Good book on everyday cooking in Japan. This is food that is delicious and generally good for you save for a rather high salt content...." Read more
"...The ingredients are simply and the flavors really shine." Read more
Customers find the book's usability fantastic.
"...and are finding the directions easy to follow and the results fantastic...." Read more
"...and ramen recipes that I've tried have produced solid, better than average results...." Read more
"...This one does not disappoint. Every recipe I've tried has turned out excellent...." Read more
"...I've made the shoyu ramen and the chicken curry chahan; both were wonderful...." Read more
Customers find the storytelling style interesting, creative, and authentic. They also appreciate the cultural background and history lessons. Overall, readers describe the book as simple but still authentic.
"...Sauces like Tomkatsu or curry are a real creative mix of old and new, east and west...." Read more
"...It also throws in cultural background and a history lesson here and there. Would recommend to anyone who loves making tasty food from scratch...." Read more
"great Recipes and easy to follow...very traditional and I like that as I have been to japan and am loking for that type of simple yet delicious food!" Read more
"...Lots of cool recipes and light on the backstories...." Read more
Customers are mixed about the ingredients in the book. Some mention that the ingredients are readily available, while others say that they're not readily available and the recipes are confusing.
"...These are from-scratch recipes, using Japanese ingredients...." Read more
"...I found a number of the recipes to be a bit fiddley though and not something i would likely try at home...." Read more
"Easy to follow directions, with photos, ingredient descriptions, etc...." Read more
"...It rocks.My only complaint is some of the ingredients are hard to find and I didn't know that a Korean grocery is a much different thing..." Read more
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Vibrant pictures. 10/10 would gift to someone who wants to cook Japanese food beyond sushi.
I can't wait to make ramen from scratch, Even if I have to use the noodles from the dry package without the soup mix. It would be a million times better, Now that I know the recipe.
Top reviews from other countries
En cuanto al contenido, todo está muy bien explicado.
Ich benutze die Rezepte nicht zuletzt um glutenfreie Versionen japanischer Speisen für eine Freundin mit Glutenunverträglichkeit zu kochen - viele Rezepte enthalten ohnehin keine glutenhaltigen Bestandteile, andere lassen sich relativ einfach modifizieren (Kartoffelstärke statt Mehl, etc.). Geht natürlich nicht immer.
Einziger Wermutstropfen: die Maßeinheiten sind amerikanisch, komplett mit Cups, Unzen, Tablespoons, etc. Ohne entsprechende Meßbecher und -löffel oder eine Umrechnungsapp geht es für Bewohner der metrischen Welt nicht.