Grade (bouldering): Difference between revisions

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In the sport of [[bouldering]], problems are assigned technical '''grades''' according to several established systems, which are often distinct from those used in roped [[climbing]]. Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the [[Hueco]] "V" grades (known as the '''V-scale'''), [[Fontainebleau]] technical grades, route colours, [[Peak District]] grades, and British technical grades. Historically, the three-level "B" system and even the [[Yosemite Decimal System]] (sometimes with a "B" prepended, as in "B5.12") were also used.
 
==The Gill "B" System==
The "B" grade system introduced by [[John Gill (climber)|John Gill]] had only three categories. "B1" was originally defined as "... the highest level of difficulty in traditional roped climbing" [http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/HomePage2.html], "B2" was something harder than that, or "bouldering level", and the grade "B3" designated a problem that had not been repeated. When a B3 saw a second ascent, it would be reclassified as a B2 (or a B1) as appropriate.
 
The scale was designed to gradually slide upward. As advances in traditional climbing raised standards, it was thought that many B2's would become B1, and the base level for B1 would rise. The acceptance of [[sport climbing]] made this vision hard to apply, and the scale started to take on a more fixed meaning, with designations such as "B1+" and "B2-" [http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/gill.shtml].
 
The system is no longer in wide use, though occasionally climbers visiting old areas in [[North America]] will encounter boulder problems rated using it. The difficulty of the problems relative to other rating systems has to be deduced relative to what year the problems were put up. Gill blames the decline in popularity of his system on it being "... against the grain of normal competitive structures, where a simple open progression of numbers or letters indicates progress."
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The grades in this system are similar to the French route grades, but have different meaning. An 8a route is significantly easier than an 8a boulder problem. To reduce confusion, some people write the bouldering grades in uppercase letters (e.g. "8B+" vs. "8b+"), which was designed by the internet site, 8a.nu.
 
==The Hueco Scale==
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* [http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/gradjmf.shtml Comparison of grades 1]
*[http://www.mec.ca/Main/content_text.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302881777&CONTENT%3C%3Ecnt_id=10134198673781909 Comparison of grades 2]
 
==References==