Okinawan Soba

Preparation

1. Step 1

   In a large bowl, cover the kombu with 6¼ cups water and set aside to soak while you cook the pork riblets and pork belly.

2. Step 2

   In a large pot, combine all of the pork and add water to cover. Bring to a boil over moderately high heat, skimming the surface to remove impurities. Reduce the heat and simmer the meat for 1 hour, skimming as necessary.

3. Step 3

   Using tongs, transfer the riblets and pork belly to a plate. Strain the pork broth into a heatproof bowl and set aside. Cut the pork belly crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices.

4. Step 4

   In a pot large enough to hold the riblets and pork belly with 2 inches of headroom, combine the soy sauce, sake, mirin, brown sugar, garlic, ginger and 2 cups water. Whisk to dissolve the sugar. Add all of the pork and bring to a simmer over moderately high heat. Reduce the heat as necessary to simmer until the meat is tender, rotating the pieces as needed to submerge and cook evenly, about 1 hour. Remove from the heat.

5. Step 5

   Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, combine the soaked kombu and its soaking water with 6 ¼ cups of the reserved pork broth. Cook over medium heat until it starts to steam, about 15 minutes. Using tongs, remove the kombu. Bring the broth to a boil over high heat, skimming as necessary. Remove from the heat and add the bonito flakes. Cover and let stand until the bonito sinks, about 8 minutes. Strain the broth into a clean saucepan and season with salt and soy sauce to taste. Skim the fat floating on top or chill the broth and remove the fat after it hardens. The broth and braised meat can be refrigerated in airtight containers for up to 3 days.

6. Step 6

   Assemble the bowls: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Reheat the broth and the meat if necessary. Have all of your garnishes ready. Add the ramen to the boiling water and cook until springy, 4 to 5 minutes, stirring with a large fork to separate the noodles and break up any clumps. Drain well and divide among 8 wide or deep bowls. Pour the hot broth over the noodles and stir to prevent them from clumping. Top each serving with pork belly and riblets and slices of fish cake. Garnish with pickled ginger and scallions and serve with shichimi togarashi for sprinkling if you’d like.