Yakamein 

Yakamein 
Kelly Marshall for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Yossy Arefi.
Total Time
1½ hours
Rating
4(763)
Notes
Read community notes

Also known as Old Sober, this is a heartwarming and soul-restoring soup with roots in New Orleans, a special dish that makes you feel whole again. Its origins are murky, but some trace them to the 19th century, when Chinese immigrants worked alongside African Americans on plantations and railroads. These days, yakamein can be sought out in New Orleans as a hangover cure. Drawing influence from both Asian and African American cultures, the dish stands alone in what it is. With tender noodles and a rich, savory broth, it can be eaten with ketchup, soy sauce or hot sauce, but it’s a full-bodied recipe on its own. 

  • or to save this recipe.

  • Subscriber benefit: give recipes to anyone
    As a subscriber, you have 10 gift recipes to give each month. Anyone can view them - even nonsubscribers. Learn more.
  • Print Options


Advertisement


Ingredients

Yield:4 servings
  • 2tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
  • 2teaspoons Cajun seasoning
  • 4garlic cloves, minced
  • 1pound chuck roast, thinly sliced (see Tip)
  • 4tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola or vegetable
  • 1cup chopped celery (from about 2 ribs)
  • 1medium yellow onion, diced
  • 1medium green bell pepper, seeded and diced
  • ½teaspoon fine salt
  • 1teaspoon onion powder
  • 1teaspoon garlic powder
  • 1teaspoon smoked paprika
  • ½teaspoon black pepper
  • ¼teaspoon cayenne powder
  • ¼teaspoon ground ginger
  • 4cups beef stock (preferably unsalted or low-sodium)
  • 8ounces spaghetti
  • 4hard-boiled eggs, cooled and peeled
  • ½cup sliced scallions, for serving
  • Ketchup, soy sauce or hot sauce, for serving (optional)
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

634 calories; 26 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 14 grams monounsaturated fat; 5 grams polyunsaturated fat; 59 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams dietary fiber; 9 grams sugars; 43 grams protein; 1131 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

Powered by

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In a medium bowl, mix together Worcestershire sauce, Cajun seasoning and garlic. Toss the beef with the marinade and let sit for at least 30 minutes at room temperature.

  2. Step 2

    As the beef marinates, heat 3 tablespoons oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high. Add celery, onion, bell pepper and salt. Sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, pepper, cayenne and ginger; sauté for another minute. Transfer the vegetables to small bowl.

  3. Step 3

    Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pot. Working in batches, sauté the meat over medium-high heat, about 4 minutes on each side, until you get a nice crust on the outside. Add vegetables and the beef stock back to the pot with the beef. Stir well and bring to a boil.

  4. Step 4

    Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, and stirring occasionally, until beef is tender, about 40 minutes to 1 hour. Taste soup and adjust for seasoning.

  5. Step 5

    As the soup simmers, set a medium pot of salted water to boil, and, about 10 minutes before serving, add spaghetti to the pot and cook according to the package directions. Drain the spaghetti.

  6. Step 6

    Serve in bowls, making sure that each bowl has noodles, broth and beef. Garnish with halved eggs and chopped scallions. Add ketchup, soy sauce or hot sauce, if you like.

Tip
  • A chuck roast cut by a butcher may have uneven strips. Just keep an eye on the smaller pieces as they cook, pulling them out and setting them aside if you need. Add them back at the end to make sure they heat up.

Ratings

4 out of 5
763 user ratings
Your rating

or to rate this recipe.

Have you cooked this?

or to mark this recipe as cooked.

Private Notes

Leave a Private Note on this recipe and see it here.

Cooking Notes

Wow I was searching NYT just last week for a yakamein recipe & voila this week they post one! Yakamein is such an under the radar nola gem. I made it just last week using a very similar recipe & it came out wonderfully. I used store bought beef broth as I usually only make chicken from scratch.delish! For anyone who doesn’t have Worcestershire sauce on hand - I used soy sauce in the marinade with a bit of brown sugar and it came out wonderfully.

Asian markets like HMart or 99 Ranch typically have thinly sliced beef that this recipe calls for.

For folks who'd like to try some of the best Yakamein anywhere and come down to New Orleans for either French Quarter Fest or Jazz Fest - look for Ms. Linda Green's ("The Ya-Ka-Mein Lady") booth. You can also find about more about her and the history of Old Sober here: neworleanssoulfood.com

This will work great with flank steak which when almost frozen—or just cold from the fridge—slices cross-grain on the bias easily. Probably wouldn’t need as much simmer time as the flank is pretty tender. I’ll try it this weekend.

This is awesome! Spicy, hot, savory, beefy and super satisfying with the spaghetti. Thank you for this! The only thing I added was fresh ginger instead of ground, a tsp of brown sugar and a small piece of celery root (don’t eat it) together with the celery ribs. So good!

There's a wonderful book about New Orleans food called Gumbo Tales by Sarah Rohan that has a whole chapter on Yakamein (history, variations, recipes, etc.). Highly reccomend for anyone interested in this or other foods specific to New Orleans.

My mother, an American-born Chinese woman who grew up in the early 1920's, recalled how she and her friends would drive from SF to a joint in San Jose just to eat "three sauce noodles", made with soy sauce, Worcestershire, and Ketchup.

I made this last night and it's amazing! I subbed the spaghetti for shirataki noodles and it was still fantastic. This recipe is easy to follow and so so satisfying. The simmer time at the end made the beef super tender, but it also gave the spices in the broth time to deepen meld beautifully. 100% recommend!

Make this just as written and you will be very happy. Got only broth, no big deal. No spaghetti, this would be good gumbo style around a mound of rice. Low and slow gives a toothsome but tender meat. I'd make it with thick soup or stroganoff noodles and bet it would be delicious. The combination of flavors is killer.

So the first time I made this, it was perfection. A fool, I decided to tinker with perfection. If you are feeling an impulse to be healthy and add three carrots to the mix, I implore you, resist it: You will add a sweetness that throws off the savoriness and umami of the broth. I am left forlorn with my memories of the first perfect pot of yakamein, along with my profound regrets. Allow me to be a cautionary tale. Make this as written.

Browned bone-in chuck roast in cast iron, set aside, lightly browned holy trinity in cast iron, added seasonings, cooked a minute longer, then transferred all to a deep sheet pan. Covered with parchment paper and foil, brought to a boil at ~450 in oven, reduced to a simmer at ~300, and braised for ~3 hours. Served with angel hair, broccoli, boiled eggs. All quantities followed except maybe added a bit more liquid (veg broth water). Skip salt; Cajun seasoning too salty as is. Made broth for 2.

Generally I have a hard time making a recipe when I have no reference for how it's actually supposed to taste- I honestly had no clue how it would turn out. BUT this recipe was absolutely amazing and the flavors melded together brilliantly. Next time I will ditch the chuck steak and use thin-sliced (shabu) beef for ease and add more broth (4 cups, after simmering, was nowhere near enough for 2 servings, let alone 4) and 1 Tbs each of ketchup/soy sauce/worcestershire should be mandatory!

Really good. Might add more broth next time

This was SO good. Unexpectedly reminiscent of restaurant takeout ramen in the best way. I used brown rice spaghetti style pasta to make gluten free and Trader Joe’s beef bone broth because it had lower sodium than their standard beef stock. Also used Tony’s as the Cajun seasoning.

So, so delicious.

It's much easier to thinly slice beef when it is frozen.

I think 4 minutes a side is too log for the thinly sliced chuck the recipe suggests. It ends up a bit dried out. Beyond that a very good recipe.

Make with legit ramen noodles next time! Could use more fat. Made with precooked sirloin which was good, would add fattier meat next time. Would make again! Overall very easy and good weeknight meal!

I picked up some sliced chuck short ribs at Costco last week, with no plans for them. Total impulse buy. Could I use them in this recipe?

Added cumin and curry powder, doubled the cayenne (maybe tripled), added some soy sauce and some white pepper, used medium boiled eggs

I ate this in Baltimore where it's a staple in the city’s African American neighborhoods. Ketchup was the condiment of choice there

I had never heard of yakamein. I saw the recipe and had to try it. I had leftover brisket and used it instead of chuck. I marinated the thinly sliced brisket and followed the recipe as written. It was wonderful. I had ketchup, soy sauce and sriracha on the table as condiments. It was truly scrumptious.

I substituted portobello mushrooms for the meat and used high quality vegetable stock. It was wonderful!

So the first time I made this, it was perfection. A fool, I decided to tinker with perfection. If you are feeling an impulse to be healthy and add three carrots to the mix, I implore you, resist it: You will add a sweetness that throws off the savoriness and umami of the broth. I am left forlorn with my memories of the first perfect pot of yakamein, along with my profound regrets. Allow me to be a cautionary tale. Make this as written.

What about pork shoulder? Could you substitute that instead of beef. Asking because I have an extra one in the freezer.

I wasn’t too sure about the instructions for “thinly slicing” the beef and opted for longer but thin slices across the grain. It cooked well but required cutting in the bowl, which was awkward. Flavor was good.

I followed this recipe exactly but my beef did not turn out tender - wonder what I did wrong?

Private notes are only visible to you.

Advertisement

or to save this recipe.