French Onion-Braised Lamb Shanks With Barley and Greens

French Onion-Braised Lamb Shanks With Barley and Greens
Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
About 4 hours
Rating
4(385)
Notes
Read community notes

This warming stew starts with a mountain of lightly caramelized onions and leeks to combine the sweet-savory flavors of French onion soup with rich, red wine-braised lamb shanks. Onion soups can be delicious whether made with lightly caramelized onions or deep, dark, sweet onions, and achieving either is a simple matter of adjusting the cooking time on the onions. Barley and greens added toward the end of cooking make it a complete one-pot meal, though the stew would be equally delicious spooned over polenta or mashed potatoes. (If serving with potatoes or polenta, omit the barley and cook as directed.) Not into lamb (or can’t find shanks)? Try the exact same recipe with beef short ribs or oxtail.

Featured in: A Lamb Stew With a French Onion Twist

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Ingredients

Yield:4 to 6 servings
  • 3½ to 4pounds lamb shanks (about 4 large or 5 to 6 small or medium)
  • Salt and black pepper
  • 2tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola, vegetable or rice bran
  • 3pounds yellow onions, thinly sliced (see Tip)
  • 1pound leeks (about 2 large), white and pale green parts only, cut into 2- to 3-inch segments, then thinly sliced lengthwise (see Tip)
  • 1medium carrot (about 6 ounces), peeled and finely diced
  • 8garlic cloves, smashed and roughly chopped
  • ¼cup tomato paste
  • 2cups dry red wine
  • 6cups chicken stock, preferably homemade (see Tip)
  • 4rosemary sprigs
  • 1cup pearled barley
  • 1bunch mature spinach or kale (remove the stems if using kale), roughly chopped
Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 275 degrees. Lightly season lamb with salt and pepper on all sides. Heat the oil in a 7- to 8-quart Dutch oven over medium-high until shimmering. Add the lamb shanks and cook, turning occasionally, until well-browned on all sides, about 10 minutes total. Transfer the lamb to a rimmed baking sheet or large plate, and set aside.

  2. Step 2

    Add the onions, leeks and carrots to the Dutch oven. Reduce heat to medium. Season lightly with salt and cook, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the Dutch oven with a wooden spoon, until the onions and leeks are as caramelized as you’d like, about 20 minutes for lightly caramelized onions that give the stew a more savory flavor, or 45 minutes or longer for deeply caramelized onions that will make the stew sweeter. If browned bits start building up on the bottom of the pot, add water a tablespoon at a time, scraping them up and reincorporating them before continuing.

  3. Step 3

    When the onions are ready, add the garlic, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and stir until it evenly coats all of the vegetables. Add the wine, scrape the bottom and sides of the pot, and cook until the wine is reduced by at least half, a minute or two. Add the chicken stock and the rosemary. (Tie the rosemary into a bundle with kitchen twine if you want to make it easier on yourself later.)

  4. Step 4

    Return the lamb shanks to the pot. Increase heat to high, bring the pot to a simmer, and transfer to the oven. Place a lid on top, leaving it cracked by an inch or so. Cook for 2½ hours, then remove from oven. Flip the lamb, and stir the barley and spinach into the broth, making sure it’s all submerged. Return to the oven, cover with the lid cracked, and continue cooking until a metal skewer inserted into the lamb meets very little resistance, the meat falls off the bone with a little tug, and the barley is fully cooked but still chewy, 30 to 45 minutes longer.

  5. Step 5

    Transfer the pot to the stovetop, remove and discard the rosemary, and adjust the consistency to a saucy, stewlike mixture by simmering to thicken, or thin it out by adding water. Stirring as you go to prevent the bottom from sticking. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

Tips
  • When slicing the onions, remove the stem and root end, then split the onion from pole to pole. Remove the skin, then lay each half flat on your cutting board and slice them from pole to pole (to form slivers as opposed to half rings). Onions cut this way will melt into the stew more easily.
  • Leeks can often have sandy soil trapped between their layers. To clean them, trim and discard the root end, then cut off the dark green tops (they can be discarded or added to the pot the next time you make stock). Cut the white/pale green stalk into 2- to 3-inch sections, then split each section in half lengthwise. Run the sections under cool water, gently separating the layers with your fingers to rinse out any grit. Once clean, slice each section lengthwise into thin slivers.
  • This dish works best with a rich, homemade chicken stock, the kind that sets into a gel when refrigerated. If using a thinner stock or store-bought stock, pour the stock into a bowl and sprinkle the surface with ¼ cup powdered gelatin. Let it sit until the gelatin is fully hydrated, then use as directed in the recipe.
  • This stew can be made in advance and refrigerated for several days. It can be reheated gently in a covered saucepan or Dutch oven on the stovetop, adding water as necessary to adjust the consistency.

Ratings

4 out of 5
385 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

The lamb shanks I get all give off a great deal of fat as they cook. So I would skim off fat from the top of the liquid before serving, or better yet, remove the lamb from the finished dish, chill the sauce/barley/greens separately from the lamb, and remove excess fat once the sauce is cold. Then recombine the two parts the next day to reheat.

Buy your meat at the butcher and ask to “crack” the shanks. The butcher will slice through the bone, but leave the ligament attached. The result is the marrow now cooks into the stew and develops the rich flavors unique to lamb shanks.

Very nice recipe. Interestingly, India's Parsis prepare lamb/mutton similarly, browning loads of onion at the start, then browning the meat. But they typically follow up with pressure cooking - an Instant Pot will shorten Step 4 to 40 minutes. Not sure about the need for dry red wine. Dry (brut) is a fancy term for "not sweet": cheap wines often use sugar to mask immaturity/impurities. This recipe, however, benefits from mild sweetness, so even a Trader Joe's "3-buck Chuck" would work.

Suzanne F: Great point. Interestingly, the reaction to lamb fat is culture-dependent. Those who eat lamb rarely if at all find its odor repulsive, but folks in lamb-eating cultures find it appetizing, especially when combined with spices/herbs, and save it for cooking (like schmaltz/lard in European cuisines). An Iranian friend told me that kebab vendors there grill the tails of fat-tailed sheep, and use powerful fans to blast the aroma toward the street to attract customers.

"...cook until the wine is reduced by at least half, a minute or two." How do you turn two cups of wine into one cup in a minute or two?

Certain family members object to wrestling with large pieces of bone-in meat, so I typically remove all the meat from the shanks in stews & return it to the pot before serving. In my family we call this “company style.” I’ll do that here as this recipe definitely looks good enough for company.

I grew up in the Middle East where the only red meat we could regularly get was lamb. Yes, it can sometimes have a strong odor and flavor that is off-putting for some people, but that is often because what is sold here as "lamb" is actually often older and therefore more akin to mutton, which can be very "gamey" in odor and taste. The meat from a true lamb is delicious and delicate, and worth trying to find from a reliable butcher or farmer.

@Richard - RE: Instant Pot vs oven * Using the rule of thumb of 1/3 non-pressure cooking time avoids stringy meat. This works even for drying-prone meats (chicken breast, pork loin) where marination+added fat also helps. * Diligently browning meat & veggies in Steps 1-2 pushes caramelization/Maillard reactions as far as they'll go. * Pressure cooking always needs less liquid because the steam has nowhere to go. You can cook off excess liquid later, but you don't need an oven for that

Can this dish be made with farro?

I rarely follow recipes, use mostly for inspiration. Limited free time so went for it. Used farm (New England) raised lamb shanks, homemade no salt chicken stock. Delicious outcome. Many textures (meat, barley spinach), many tastes (herby meat [extra fresh rosemary], sweet from tomato paste & lamb, earthy from barley, plum notes from the wine. Will make again and maybe use short ribs. Maybe use curry, jasmine rice and slight sweetness from a chutney. Definitely a winner as is, thank you.

Most of the time this is in the oven and it only has a slightly longer prep time compared to other braises with these steps because of the caramelized onions. Flavors take a little bit of time and work to build. If some basic cooking work isn't for you (the steps here to caramelize/deglaze/reduce are the same for braises/stews around the world from bolognese to curry to mole), there's a whole industry of people who will do it for a price.

@Jed - Prices were raised a while ago. I guy I know, who drinks this exclusively, was furious when it happened, but he had little choice but to stick with it. (Aldi's has some $2.95 wines as well - the Moscato and Zinfandels, which are intrinsically sweet, are surprisingly decent.)

Quite nice, really hit the spot on a cold winter evening. I used 3” lamb neck chops rather than shanks, as that’s what the butcher had, and added a dab of anchovy paste along with the tomato paste. Red burgundy wine worked well. Had to be away from home for a few hours while this was cooking, so reduced temp to 250 and cooked an additional hour, no problem at all. Served with mashed potatoes rather than barley. A great take on a classic dish, thank you Kenji!

I thought this recipe was delicious as is, but there was a layer of flavor in the sauce that I felt was missing and that is some kind of pork, be it bacon, pancetta, etc... I would cook it down in the beginning, remove it from the pan, and brown the shanks in the fat. Then proceed as written adding the bacon back in right before you put it in the oven.

This was easy to prepare and so delicious. We love a good braise and this was a nice alternative to our usual go to’s such as short ribs and coq au vin. We ate heartily with enough leftover to freeze for another day. Loved it!

2 things… 1) 3 pounds of onions in an 8qt Dutch oven is not going to caramelize in 40 mins. Split the onions and do them in 2 batches. 2) If you’re using store bought stock definitely do the gelatin trick and reduce significantly prior to adding the shanks back in and going to the oven. (Home made stock is definitely best.) Also consider BEEF STOCK instead!

I found this recipe to result in a stew where everything tasted the same and overall the flavor was too heavy. I prefer to be able to taste the subtleties of each major ingredient.

Flour in leeks and onion

I have made this twice, and it is delicious. It does take time, so I save it for vacation time. The first time, there was a lot of fat, but I scooped it off, and it was fine. This time, I put the browned shanks on a baking sheet in the oven, at 275, while the onions caramelized (45 minutes), and a lot of the fat stayed behind on the baking sheet.

This was delicious. I cooked onions for 1 hour, not browned but very soft. Cooked lamb for 4ish hours, then took off the bone. Kept warm and reduced the sauce on the stove as didn't put gelatin in the stock. Served chunks of lamb with sauce spooned on top with polenta. Came out great.

Use american raised lamb. the New Zealand lamb can be quite strong and the meat to bone ratio is much smaller. The american lamb cost more but in my opinion well worth it

How much is “one bunch” of spinach?

Didn’t use the barley. Cut the recipe in 1/2 and had 8+ servings. Very delicious! Leftovers especially! Mashed potatoes the perfect accompaniment.

Excellent!i did not use the barley as mashed potatoes are a perfect pairing. I did add a tablespoon or so of vinegar at the end to sharpen the flavor.

We just picked up our yearly lamb from a wonderful, small herd farmer. Shanks are one of my favorite cuts as there are so many ways to prepare them. And she gave us 4 extra shanks as some others didn’t want the shanks! Made a small batch version and it was very yummy. Next time I would add a germolata at the end to brighten the dish.

Amazing recipe, I used ossobucco cut shanks and they probably could have braised another half hour to be fork tender. As is, they were easily tender and cut with a butter knife. Flavor was great but maybe add a tiny amount of vinegar when finishing to cut some richness. I recommend skimming some fat before adding the grains.

Absolutely delicious! A new favorite. Used rich homemade stock. Carmelized onions about 35 minutes. Made this over a few days: cooked through addition of barley on Day 1, leaving barley a bit underdone (had to leave the house). Refrigerated a few days, then reheated, cooked an hour at 275, then added spinach for just a few minutes. Adding the greens for the last few minutes is the only change I’d suggest - oh, and the dish was all the better for flavors marrying a few days.

I've never made lamb shanks from scratch. I luckily started with this recipe which was absolutely deliciousI got my lamb shanks from the butcher but did not know that I should ask to have them cracked. So they weren't. But that didn't stop the recipe from being terrific! I'd do it again soon!

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