Abdoogh Khiar (Chilled Buttermilk Cucumber Soup)

Abdoogh Khiar (Chilled Buttermilk Cucumber Soup)
Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
15 minutes, plus chilling
Rating
4(518)
Notes
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This beautiful and simple classic Iranian cold soup is destined for those hot summer days when all you want to do is pull up a chair inside the fridge. Doogh refers to the buttermilk that comes from the process of churning yogurt butter, but this dish is often prepared with a mixture of yogurt and water. Here, tangy, creamy buttermilk is blended with plain yogurt for a soup with extra body. An array of cooling, crunchy, sweet and savory ingredients are then added to the base, along with herbs and spices for a refreshing, satisfying meal.

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Ingredients

Yield:2 to 4 servings
  • 1teaspoon dried edible Damask rose petals (optional; see Tip)
  • 2cups buttermilk, plus more if desired
  • ½cup plain yogurt
  • Kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)
  • 3Persian cucumbers (7 ounces), cut into ¼-inch pieces, plus more for garnish
  • cup golden or black raisins, plus more for garnish
  • ¼cup walnut halves, coarsely chopped, plus more for garnish
  • ¼cup finely chopped fresh dill, plus sprigs for garnish
  • ¼cup finely chopped chives or green onion
  • 1teaspoon dried mint, plus more for garnish
  • ½lavash rectangle or 1 large slice bread of choice (such as sourdough)
  • 4ice cubes
  • Fresh mint leaves, for garnish
Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    If using dried rose, crumble a few petals coarsely for garnish and set aside. Place the rest on a cutting board and chop as finely as possible.

  2. Step 2

    Place the buttermilk, yogurt and 1 teaspoon salt in a blender and blend until frothy, about 30 seconds, or whisk together in a large bowl until smooth and frothy. If you used a blender, pour the mixture into a large bowl. Add the cucumbers, raisins, walnuts, dill, chives, dried mint and ¼ teaspoon of the finely chopped rose petals. Stir well to combine and season to taste with more salt. Cover and refrigerate to chill and allow the flavors to come to life, at least 1 hour and up to overnight.

  3. Step 3

    Just before serving, toast the lavash or bread until crisp but not burned, and break into pieces. Stir the soup to mix. It should be the consistency of a thin, runny soup. If it’s too thick, thin it out with water or more buttermilk, 1 tablespoon at a time. Keep in mind that you will be adding ice cubes, which will also thin out the soup as they melt. Divide the soup among serving bowls and add the ice cubes. Garnish the top as creatively as you like with crumbled dried rose petals, cucumber, dried mint, dill sprigs, raisins, walnuts and fresh mint leaves. Add the bread pieces right before serving or serve on the side.

Tip
  • Dried edible Damask rose petals, available in Middle Eastern markets and online, are used in various Iranian dishes as a fragrant and savory spice. They’re worth seeking out, grinding to a powder (whole petals are pretty as a garnish but tough to chew) and adding to your spice cabinet. Feel free to swap out for more of the fresh herbs, as you like.

Ratings

4 out of 5
518 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

I've been making this for 30 years (though without the rose petals, lavash, and ice cubes). It's a unique and impressive starter on a hot summer day. Definitely make in advance so the flavors have time to meld. Enjoy!

Do you think I could use plain milk kefir instead of buttermilk?

Carole: Rose water adds an overpowering floral fragrance that would NOT substitute. There are enough flavors that the roses aren’t necessary, especially if they’re dried and packaged so long that their essence is lost. That said, if you wanted to add a floral flourish, you could try the edible flowering tips of some herbs, especially basil or chive. Whatever you find, taste one first, because some flowers are more bitter than their greens.

It sounds weird, but the rose petals are really great in this soup. They add color, flavor and a delightful texture. I buy them in my local Halal/international market. When I make this soup, I double the amount of rose petals (1/4 cup/15 grams) and I just crumble the petals in; I don't chop them. I also add a tablespoon of minced preserved lemon to the soup, an idea I got from the Aglaia Kremizi, the Greek author of Mediterranean Vegetarian Feasts. It adds a lot to the overall taste.

This is my go-to for hot days, it has been since I could eat solid food. However I’ve never added buttermilk, just good yogurt. I also grate the cucumber, the additional water makes the thick yogurt (the kind that I use) more soup-like

Do the rose petals impart flavor or just color ? If flavor, can I substitute some rose water for the petals in this receipe?

I made this recipe as a starter for a dinner party last night. I left out the rose petals but added fresh mint and an edible flower. I also put the soup in shot glasses for smaller portioning. I added about a 1/2 teaspoon of white pepper and reduced the salt to 1/4 teaspoon. The flavors melded well overnight and the raisins and walnuts added a chewy consistency that everyone enjoyed. All nine dinner party attendees agreed that this cool, flavorful soup is a perfect summer treat.

Old Novice: Yes, absolutely you could enjoy this without the lavash and raisins! It’ll lack some consistency from the soaked starch, so it may be slightly thinner. If you’re making your own buttermilk, be sure to use enough lemon juice to thicken the milk like a soup. The raisins provide a contrasting sweetness and chewy texture. If you have good-quality brightly colored dried tomatoes, try one or two, chopped. If you only have the brownish leathery kind, I’d say skip them.

Not a fairytale! Rose petals and rosewater are also used in Indian cuisine. You can probably find a rose lassie (cold yogurt drink) at an Indian restaurant. The first sips might seem strange, but if it grows on you, as it does many people, then there's nothing really like it! (Or maybe someone will write in about something like it--but I mean it's pretty cool and different!)

Prepared this as written. After tasting, I decided to add more raisins. Loved it! My partner’s comment: “Pretty good, but kind of heavy on the raisins!”

How long will this keep in the fridge?

Plain kefir is an excellent substitute for buttermilk, and it works well in this recipe. In fact, I always use plain kefir anytime I have a recipe calling for buttermilk because it's healthier and lasts much longer in the refrigerator.

Substitute rose, mint, walnuts, raisins with grated (cooked) beetroots and boiled egg; lavash with cooked potatoes and you will get Lithuanian cold beetroot (pink) soup (Šaltibatščiai)

Which is delicious, but a totally different soup! Borscht!

Have you tried Persian cucumber? It is much sweeter than regular cucumbers. You might like it. I actually don't like regular cucumbers but eat Persian cucumber frequently.

Such a refreshing and delicious medley of flavors and textures! I hate raisins, though, so I substituted dried currants. Yummy!

I’d also love to know if Kefir could sub for buttermilk. Any other suggestions to replace dairy cows’ milk?

Another idea is to use Borage in addition to, or to replace rose petals. Pretty blue flower, with a light cucumber taste. I've never seen it anywhere but home gardens, tho it's a very happy plant, entirely edible, self seeds abundantly. It has beautiful blue, edible, star type flowers that attract many butterflies and bees. Also nice as a pretty and tasty garnish for lemonade, cocktails, and of course, cold soups and salads.

I have great memories of my mother’s go to dinner for a hot August day.. She would mix a cup of sour cream with a quart of buttermilk and set out a variety of salad ingredients. Everyone got a soup bowl with the buttermilk mixture and could add whatever salad ingredients they wanted. She usually served this along side corn on the cob.

Any dairy free option here? Sounds delicious.

OMG, I love this so much. I found the lavash nicer outside the soup, personally, and I didn't bother with the rose petals. It's so refreshing and tangy and full of unexpected flavor explosions--a knockout. I tripled the recipe and have bookmarked the recipe to make in perpetuity (and I almost never make anything twice). My daughter, however, was dismissive: "A bowl of buttermilk? I'm glad you didn't make this when I was having friends over." Oh well.

I’ve made this a few times now and it’s really wonderful. Favorite rendition of a yogurt, cucumber soup I’ve had. The golden raisins are a lovely touch. Also I’ve forgotten to leave time for chilling, but was still super tasty fresh.

My market sells both low- and full-fat buttermilk. I know that traditionally, buttermilk is low-fat. Any thoughts about using the richer version?

Can this be frozen and if so, what’s the best way to reconstitute once thawed?

This is ridiculously good. The texture and flavors are wonderful.

My mother and grandmother (who are Persian) have been making this recipe for years. They don't use walnuts or rose petals. They also add halved hard boiled eggs at the end for a filling lunch. I am not a fan of hard boiled eggs so omit them and serve as a summer starter.

My mom would make this on the regular when it was hot to cook but stick with yogurt thinner out with water? Buttermilk? No way, hard pass. And definitely add walnuts for crunch!

This was phenomenal. I made it as described, except I had to use fresh mint, as I had no dried. I loved the tang of the buttermilk and yogurt, the bits of nuts and raisins, the dill, altogether - just divine. I didn't use rose petals and I used Armenian cucumbers, they need no peeling or seeding. The toppings made this so beautiful to present to my spouse. He loved it.

Never heard of this. Doogh (duqh?) to us was always very tart yogurt blended with sparkling water, maybe some fresh mint and/or dill, and poured over a glass full of ice. This came to us through grandparents who lived in Iran for almost 20 years in the 1920's and 1930's and passed on through my father who was born and raised in Iran.

Chip Steiner, I lived in Tehran ages ago. I also remember Abdoogh Khiar as being a lighter, sparking version of Mast-a Khair. I loved it, it was so good on an hot summer day

They say just yogurt fine. Grate cukes for added water or use water.!

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Credits

By Naz Deravian

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