Birria Tacos

Birria Tacos
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Maggie Ruggiero.
Total Time
4 hours, largely unattended
Rating
4(302)
Notes
Read community notes

Birria is one of Mexico’s most beloved dishes, and eating it is a tradition, a way of life. A signature dish from Jalisco, it now extends through the entire country and north of the border. In this version from Oaxaca, goat or lamb is first marinated in vinegar to moderate its gamey flavors, then it’s cooked gently for so long that it falls apart. Guajillo chiles and aromatic avocado leaves coax delicate flavors from the meat and result in an intense, fragrant broth. The shredded meat is tucked into tacos here, but can also make its way into quesadillas and tortas. In every form, the meat tastes best garnished with chopped onion and cilantro, and chased with the broth mixed with a generous squeeze of fresh lime juice.

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Ingredients

Yield:8 servings
  • 4 to 5pounds bone-in goat or lamb shoulder, cut into 3-inch pieces
  • ¼cup distilled white vinegar
  • 6teaspoons fine sea salt or coarse kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • 4 to 5large dried avocado leaves
  • 3ounces guajillo chiles (10 to 15), stemmed and seeded
  • 16corn tortillas, warmed
  • 2cups finely chopped white onion
  • 2cups chopped cilantro leaves
  • 2 to 3limes, cut into wedges
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (8 servings)

1063 calories; 77 grams fat; 27 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 37 grams monounsaturated fat; 8 grams polyunsaturated fat; 47 grams carbohydrates; 17 grams dietary fiber; 8 grams sugars; 50 grams protein; 1227 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Place the meat in a large bowl and cover with cold water. Add the vinegar and 2 teaspoons salt, and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Drain, then rinse well with cold water.

  2. Step 2

    Place the rinsed meat in a Dutch oven or other ovenproof pot, cover with water (at least 3 quarts), add 4 teaspoons salt and stir. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and skim foam from the surface. Cover and cook for 2 hours.

  3. Step 3

    Meanwhile, heat a medium saucepan over medium-low. Once hot, toast the avocado leaves, flipping them as they cook, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove from the saucepan.

  4. Step 4

    Place the chiles in the saucepan, cover with water and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Simmer until the chiles are completely rehydrated and plumped, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chiles to a blender, add 1 cup of the cooking liquid and purée until completely smooth.

  5. Step 5

    Uncover the meat, stir in the guajillo chile purée and drop in the toasted avocado leaves. Cover again and continue to simmer until the meat is so tender it falls apart when a fork is inserted, 1½ to 2 more hours. Discard the avocado leaves and season the broth to taste with salt. (At this point, the birria can be cooled to room temperature, then covered and chilled for up to 3 days. If you’d like, you can remove and discard the solidified fat from the broth before reheating on the stovetop.)

  6. Step 6

    Transfer the meat from the broth to a platter, discard the bones, shred the meat and moisten with some broth. Season the meat to taste with salt and divide the remaining broth among serving bowls or cups. If you’d like, you can skim the fat from the surface of the broth.

  7. Step 7

    To serve, set out the tortillas, onion, cilantro and lime wedges to assemble tacos with the meat and to season the broth. Eat the tacos and drink the broth as a chaser.

Ratings

4 out of 5
302 user ratings
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Private Notes

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Cooking Notes

What can be substituted for avocado leaves?

If you can't find avocado leaves, just use one or two bay leaves.

Where does one buy avocado leaves? I live near Mexican markets in California but have never seen them.

Avocado leaves have a very delicate Anise like flavor. I drop in one or two of the "petals" of the anise or 4-5 anise seeds.

Please feel free to add garlic to the recipe because the broth will lack a ton of flavor. You can use Mexican oregano or just plain oregano and a few bay leaves to substitute the avocado leaves. Just add garlic though. It’ll taste a million times better.

Can you make this with pork?

Some alternatives to avocado leaf are tarragon, shiso, bay leaf, a little bit of fennel pollen or seed, one or two small sections of an anise seed "flower", or a dash of five-spice powder. Avocado is very subtle, these alternatives are less so. These all have slightly different tastes profiles and strengths.

Avocado leaves are available from Burlap & Barrel.

The recipe calls for the goat or lamb leg to be bone in but then cut into 3 inch pieces. Is the bone used in the cooking? Or simply part of the measurement of the initial weight?

I agree with another chef and added garlic (about 6 cloves). I substituted pork for goat or lamb and skipped the first step of the recipe. Tasted AMAZING!

In lieu of avocado leaves, use bay leaves + 4-5 anise seeds (or fennel/fenne powder). Also add a ton of garlic to broth.

I simmer the chiles in chicken broth to make simple work of stem/seed removal. I add a few African Birds Eye and jalapeños, along with many garlic cloves. I toss in red/green roasted peppers. I cook this all down after using my immersion blender on the broth. The sauce is thicker than a traditional birria but it’s smoky and delicious.

I asked for Avocado Leave at my local Mexican Supermarket, where I can get dozens of varieties of chilies, and sometimes Goat, and the Produce Lady just shrugged. They don't carry them and never have.

Why use bone in, if you are just going to cut it off the bone into chunks?

Has anyone tried with mushrooms or a different vegetarian approach? What did you think?

I will be getting a boneless leg of lamb. My Butcher will remove the bone and I’ll make the broth with it the day before.

Four teaspoons of salt is a lot. I halved the recipe, so blithely threw in two teaspoons. Regretted it. Just go easy at first and adjust later. The meat, however, came out fabulous.

The guajillo chilis add a subtle, delicious flavor to the goat meat so don't skimp on them. Any self-respecting Mexican store has dried avocado leaves. As others note, adding garlic amps up the flavor. I used goat from a local butcher and served the tacos with pinto beans flavored with some epazote leaves and pico de gallo on the side. We loved it.

I agree with another chef and added garlic (about 6 cloves). I substituted pork for goat or lamb and skipped the first step of the recipe. Tasted AMAZING!

This recipe is badly written and takes way too much time given the very bland results, even after increasing the number of chili peppers, using hotter varieties, and adding lots of garlic based on earlier suggestions. Why bother cutting the lamb into chunks first if you’re supposed to put he bones In the cooking broth and boil it to death? The meat will fall off the bones anyway, with far less work.

I made this and it was such a miss! I’m going to take some partial responsibility here — I was definitely distracted while making it, but the end result was pretty flavorless. I added a head of garlic and 3 bay leaves since I couldn’t quickly access avocado leaves, but it still tasted so bland. I’m wondering how it came out for others... all of the comments so far are about subs for avocado leaves.

Avocado leaves can be found on multiple sites on the internet

In lieu of avocado leaves, use bay leaves + 4-5 anise seeds (or fennel/fenne powder). Also add a ton of garlic to broth.

I have never seen avocado leaves in markets here in France. Glad to know, thanks to other notes from readers, that there are substitutes, like bay leaves + oregano. Personally, I do not like the flavor of anise, so that is out for me, but garlic is certainly a useful -and flavorful- addition.

Please feel free to add garlic to the recipe because the broth will lack a ton of flavor. You can use Mexican oregano or just plain oregano and a few bay leaves to substitute the avocado leaves. Just add garlic though. It’ll taste a million times better.

The recipe calls for the goat or lamb leg to be bone in but then cut into 3 inch pieces. Is the bone used in the cooking? Or simply part of the measurement of the initial weight?

I don't bother trying to cut up bone-in goat. Just cook it as per the recipe and then remove the bones and shred the meat. Bones always add flavor to braised meats - think of beef short ribs or bone-in pork ribs. Yum!

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