Creamy Braised Chanterelles and Potatoes

Creamy Braised Chanterelles and Potatoes
Julia Gartland for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.
Total Time
About 2 hours
Rating
4(190)
Notes
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The simplicity of this dish may make it sound dull, but its flavors are stunningly earthy, rich and deep. It makes a luxurious fall or winter vegetarian main course. The chef who wrote the recipe for this Russian classic, Bonnie Frumkin Morales, says she knows it is tempting to add garnishes like snipped chives or seasonings like black pepper. But the pure flavor of the mushrooms and cream, which saturates the potatoes, is best appreciated alone. You'll need to buy crème fraîche or smetana (not regular sour cream) and heavy cream that hasn't been ultrapasteurized to ensure the sauce stays stable without separating and becoming greasy. —Julia Moskin

Featured in: Russian New Year’s Eve: Christmas, the Fourth of July and Thanksgiving, All Rolled Into One

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Ingredients

Yield:4 to 6 main course servings, 8 to 10 appetizer servings

    Ingredients

    • 1 to 1½pounds fresh chanterelle or shiitake mushrooms
    • 1tablespoon unsalted butter
    • cups heavy cream (not ultrapasteurized)
    • cups crème fraîche or smetana (Russian sour cream)
    • 1tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
    • 2pounds Yukon Gold or other all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
    • Crusty bread, for serving (optional)
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

508 calories; 36 grams fat; 22 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 10 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 41 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams dietary fiber; 7 grams sugars; 9 grams protein; 872 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Clean the mushrooms: Fill the sink or a large bowl with cold water. Lay out some clean kitchen towels. Working with a few at a time, dunk the mushrooms in the water and gently swish to remove any dirt or debris. Shake off excess water and transfer to the towels to dry until excess water has been absorbed. Use your hands to tear any very large mushrooms into halves or quarters.

  2. Step 2

    In a medium-size heavy pot with a lid, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally. The mushrooms will first give off a lot of liquid and then it will begin to evaporate. Raise the heat as needed to keep the liquid at a fast boil.

  3. Step 3

    In a bowl, whisk together the heavy cream, sour cream and salt. When the liquid in the pot has mostly evaporated, stir in the cream mixture and bring to a simmer. Stir in the potatoes and return to a simmer. Partly cover the pot, and let simmer gently for 1 hour. Check and adjust the heat occasionally to make sure the mixture is simmering, not boiling.

  4. Step 4

    After 1 hour, test the potatoes. If they are still firm, keep simmering until they are just cooked through.

  5. Step 5

    When the potatoes are just cooked through, uncover the pot and raise the heat to a lively simmer. Cook until the braising liquid reduces and begins to caramelize, 10 to 20 minutes. It will turn golden brown and thick, like a cream sauce. Taste and add more salt if necessary. Toward the end, stir often to prevent the liquid at the bottom of the pot from scorching.

  6. Step 6

    Serve hot, mopping up the sauce with crusty bread, if desired.

Ratings

4 out of 5
190 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

Will the mushrooms be overdone with cooking them for over an hour while the potatoes cook?

Wonderful. This recipe is very low-key to make, most of it being time spent hands-off. I used cremini mushrooms, and a combination of russet and baby gold potatoes. I couldn't find creme fraiche unfortunately, and no question whether I was going to be able to find "smetna". I replaced it with mexican sour cream and some Greek yogurt, and was fortunate enough to find simply pasteurized (as opposed to ultra) non-homogenized whipping cream.

LET THIS GO FOR 3 HOURS! If you can. Bonnie recommends it in her recipe, and it really made a difference when I made it yesterday. By the time it gets to 3 hours, the cream mixture has really started to get brown and the whole flavor takes on a heady aroma. Wonderful.

If it's in the refrigerator in the grocery store , it's not ultra-pasteurized.

Most of the heavy cream available in my area (Cincinnati) is ultrapasturized and found in the refrigerated section. It is designated on the container. I can sometimes get an Ohio based Snowville heavy cream that is minimally pasteurized.

Could this be made in a slow cooker? I'm terrible about forgetting items on simmer and wouldn't want to scorch this.

Used half and half instead of heavy cream and would recommend sticking to heavy cream. Not that it didn't work, but it could have worked better. I used a mix of chanterelle, shiitake, and cremini mushrooms and they turned out great. This recipe doesn't require any extra herbs or speices because the mushrooms add so much. I was skeptical but satisfied.

Heavy cream is the same as whipping cream, unwhipped.

I made this the other night and used the exact amounts of both dairy ingredients (slightly more butter) and was about 1oz short of both the mushrooms and potatoes. The dish came out extremely dry (definitely nothing to sop up, which I was looking forward to with this), and I had to drizzle some olive oil on it afterwards just to make it more palatable. The taste was wonderful, but I would probably double the liquid ingredients next time (unless I completely missed something?).

This was very rich, but very bland. I made it as directed, but found it just so, so. The flavor of the chanterelles just got lost in the sauce, and the sauce just didn't have any tang to it. For the price of chanterelles these days I need them to be the star. Nope, won't be doing this again. I'll opt for the old butter sauté for the chanterelles, and if I want something heavy on the sour cream taste I'll prepare a stroganoff.

I make this at least once a year. Chanterelles have a delightful apricot flavor that comes through clearly in this recipe. I personally prefer the cooking time for the dish in this version to Bonnie Frumkin's version, as I find that Frumkin's length of cooking time causes the sauce to separate. I have a gas cooktop so can set the dish over low heat; but cooktops vary. Let it brown a little but not go too far, would be my recommendation.

We made this last night for dinner for 2 with bison steaks and a simple arugula and tomato salad. Delicious! I cut the recipe in half for the potatoes and mushrooms and made about 2/3 of the sauce based on some of the prior comments. Perfect.

The potatoes were done way before an hour

This was very rich, but very bland. I made it as directed, but found it just so, so. The flavor of the chanterelles just got lost in the sauce, and the sauce just didn't have any tang to it. For the price of chanterelles these days I need them to be the star. Nope, won't be doing this again. I'll opt for the old butter sauté for the chanterelles, and if I want something heavy on the sour cream taste I'll prepare a stroganoff.

I read your review but tried the recipe anyway and should have heeded your warning. Meh and not worth the $$$$ chanterelles.

Used coconut milk instead of cream, it'd be too rich for my taste with heavy cream and creme fraîche

Found crème fraiche and pasteurized (not ultra-) heavy cream at Wegman’s, shiitakes at H-Mart. Surprised that shiitakes didn’t cook down as much (first time with that ingredient). Would definitely up the crème fraiche and heavy cream to 2 cups each at least. Really a subtle flavor, lovely. One idea might be to roast the mushrooms slightly first to get some caramelization before adding to the (large) pot. A rustic keeper to refine for chilly evenings!

Wonderful! So rich and luscious. The timing in the recipe is spot on. Two hours and it was perfect and So Easy!

I have Bonnie Frumkin's book "Kachka" and have made her version. I prefer this one--I get wonderful results with a shorter cooking time. Thank you so much! This is my all-time favorite mushroom and potato recipe!

This recipe has the highest reward for the lowest effort of any recipe I have tried on this site. Have made 3x now and hard to imagine making potatoes a different way as long as chanterelles are available. Sauce broke a bit and it was still amazing every time. We used the best cream and creme fraiche we could find. Substitutions would be appalling…don't do it. Leftovers are miraculous if you have any.

LET THIS GO FOR 3 HOURS! If you can. Bonnie recommends it in her recipe, and it really made a difference when I made it yesterday. By the time it gets to 3 hours, the cream mixture has really started to get brown and the whole flavor takes on a heady aroma. Wonderful.

Very rich and delicious; the kind of dish one only makes for company because it’s too unhealthy for a family meal. The fat did separate at the end when I was browning even though I used Creme fraiche (not sour cream) as instructed. Not sure why. Maybe pan was too hot. I used chanterelles because they were in season in Oregon. Heaven!

Absolutely delicious and decadent - especially topped with a skillet fried filet mignon and the skillet juices poured over the top!

I made this the other night and used the exact amounts of both dairy ingredients (slightly more butter) and was about 1oz short of both the mushrooms and potatoes. The dish came out extremely dry (definitely nothing to sop up, which I was looking forward to with this), and I had to drizzle some olive oil on it afterwards just to make it more palatable. The taste was wonderful, but I would probably double the liquid ingredients next time (unless I completely missed something?).

This recipe was excellent, and very rich. I added chopped dinosaur kale before reducing the braising liquid, and this worked well to add some color and balance off some of the heaviness of the sauce.

Sinfully delicious but very rich. I had only 1 cup of creme fraiche so used about 1/2 cup good quality nonfat yogurt (Nancy's) and it was fine - next time I will try using only the yogurt instead of creme fraiche. Can't eat much at one time because it's so rich, so half quantity would probably be plenty for 4.

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Credits

Adapted from "Kachka: A Return to Russian Cooking" by Bonnie Frumkin Morales with Deena Prichep (Flatiron Books, 2017)

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