Noyaux Extract

Noyaux Extract
Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Pamela Duncan Silver.
Total Time
10 minutes, plus 3 months' steeping
Rating
4(180)
Notes
Read community notes

Hidden within the pit of an apricot is a kernel, or noyau, rife with the perfume of almonds, vanilla, apricots and lilies. The fragrance is intoxicating, simultaneously familiar and indescribable, and entirely worth extracting and capturing in a jar to add to preserves, whipped cream, custard, ice cream, cakes and even aperitifs all year long. To disable the amygdalin the noyaux contain, and prevent the body from converting it to cyanide, give the kernels a quick toast before steeping them in the alcohol.

Featured in: How to Unlock the Secret Flavor Hidden at the Apricot’s Core

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Ingredients

Yield:About 1 pint
  • 25 to 30noyaux (apricot kernels)
  • cups vodka, bourbon or light rum
Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat oven to 300 degrees. If kernels are wet, allow to dry, then spread them onto a baking sheet, and toast for 10 minutes. The noyaux shouldn’t take on any color. Remove from oven, and allow to cool.

  2. Step 2

    Place noyaux and liquor in a pint jar. Cover, and place in a dark, cool, dry place for 3 months or longer. Give the jar a shake once in a while when you think of it. Strain extract to remove debris as you use it — the longer the kernels remain in the liquor, the more aromatic and flavorful the extract will become. You can also add more kernels as they accumulate, topping off with more liquor, resulting in an infinite supply of extract.

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4 out of 5
180 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

Very interesting 2-part article about cyanide in stone fruit pits https://www.artofdrink.com/science/cyanide-in-apricot-cherries-pits http://www.artofdrink.com/science/cyanide-in-cherries-part-ii

I have an apricot tree, harvest annually, make jam, etc., and find the best tool for cracking pits is a pair of pliers, done inside a large plastic container (minimizes "stray ricochets"). You can control the breaking pressure much easier with pliers then the "Hulk smash" hammer.

Further: European Food Safety Authority says that the safe one-off dose of apricot kernels (assuming cyanide still present) is 3 small kernels or half a large kernel. So if ALL the cyanide (or precursor) ends up in your alcoholic extract, and you use 30 small kernels for 1 pint ~ 500 ml alcohol, then the average adult would be safe with a 50 ml shot glass. Baking with a 1 tsp ~ 5 ml amount would seem to be well within the safe range.

Well, after 6 months or so of steeping, after baking the kernels and putting them in ?vodka? I tried a tablespoon over vanilla ice cream. Had seconds. Had thirds. Contemplated fourths, but managed to restrain myself. If I die of cyanide poisoning, what a last dessert! I will die happy. I'm in New Mexico, which has tons of apricots should the weather cooperate (moisture in spring, and no late frosts). My now annual go-to, weather permitting (and assuming I don't die of cyanide poisoning).

A similar commercial version does exist. It is called Mahleb (derived from the cherry pit) and is widely used in Armenian cuisine (and probably Greek and Turkish) for sweet bread recipes, in particular. The scent is similarly 'intoxicating'.

Apricot kernels have been use to make Italian Amaretti cookies for many years

found an easy way to release the kernels: one at a time, wrap each kernel in a dishtowel and hit once with the flat side of a meat mallet, which has a larger surface area than a hammer. also, works better when the pits are fully dried.

Actually, commercial almond extract that isn't labelled pure but has "natural almond flavour" as an ingredient will often have had that flavour extracted from apricot pits. The allergy question is complicated. If you're allergic to almonds, you'll almost certainly be allergic to apricot pits as well. But you probably won't be allergic to anything containing "natural almond flavour", and NOT "almond oil". The crude extract above would be risky.

"Intoxicating" is indeed the best description for this extract. It smells like heaven. We were fortunate enough to have a friend send us a massive bag of apricot pits from her tree last year, and so the proportions for this recipe went out the window since they were way smaller. Just eyeballed a decent amount (it's hard work hammering, etc!) and then just added vodka. Ours has been steeping for ONE YEAR(!) and it's incredible. We just made the jam with it, and it really makes all the difference!

To save you agita: use a vice to slowly apply pressure to the pit until you hear it crack. The pit should be placed so that the sharp edges are gripped by the vice, not the rounded, flatter sides. When you turn the crank slowly, you will hear and see it crack just enough to reliably preserve the kernel inside. Pry apart the two halves with your fingers and take out the intact kernel. I tried hammers and pliers. It was all folly and smashed kernels until I tried slowly cranking down the vice.

I made this for the first time and I am wondering if I messed up. I dried the pits out on the counter and opened them up a few days later for the kernels. I then put about 20 kernals in a container with a sealed lid. I was a few short according to the recipe so I opened up about 5 more and did roast those in the oven as described above. I adding in all of the kernals to the liquor. Now I'm afraid for fear of the cyanide, since I didn't roast the first 20 kernals. Please advise if I messed up

Well, i made this- or i *thought* I had because i didn’t pay attention to the part about breaking open the pit to get to the kernel, and just have the whole pit in the vodka (it’s been in there for 2 months. anyone know if it’s bad to have this with the whole pit and not just the kernels? It smells wonderful and seems to have pulled a lot of essence into the alcohol.

I’ve been adding a few noyaux (maybe 5-8 small, lightly toasted and very finely minced kernels) to my apricot jam for many years. From a Alice Waters recipe in “Chez Panisse Fruit”. It has a subtle but wonderful bitter amaretto taste that really elevates the jam. It can be a very strong flavor so don’t use more. I wouldn’t eat them like a dish of almonds but no one has ever gotten sick from my jam.

I don’t know. Although I’m an advocate of “from scratch” whenever feasible I don’t think risking cyanide ingestion is entirely smart; regardless of how intoxicating. Same reason I won’t ever skydive or bungee jump and rarely fly. Science may say that proper procedures reduce the likelihood of poisoning but it’s not an absolute guarantee. So I’ll happily make you all my favorite pignoli cookies with almond extract procured via ground travel.

"Intoxicating" is indeed the best description for this extract. It smells like heaven. We were fortunate enough to have a friend send us a massive bag of apricot pits from her tree last year, and so the proportions for this recipe went out the window since they were way smaller. Just eyeballed a decent amount (it's hard work hammering, etc!) and then just added vodka. Ours has been steeping for ONE YEAR(!) and it's incredible. We just made the jam with it, and it really makes all the difference!

This sounds amazing, and I'd love to try it with bourbon. For those who have made it, is it worth using my special (Eagle Rare) bourbon, or would a less costly version of liquor work just as well? I'm writing from Canada, where we're shelling out about $80 for a bottle of Eagle Rare (when we can find it), and would love to hear that a non-premium alcohol will still give me premium results;)

I’m wondering if anyone has done this with peach pits?

Good way to get to the apricot kernal is to freeze the pits first. Then it's easy to crack the shell. And yes, it does smell like amaretto when it's done.

Started collecting noyaux in a jar and they quickly went moldy. Starting over, moving to the freezer.

My Hungarian grandmother used to crack the fresh pits and feed them to me like almonds, with no harm.

Very embarrassing to admit, but I still have apricot pits from last August in my kitchen waiting to be used. Do you think they're still good, or should I toss them?

I say to crack one open and see what the kernal looks like. They get dried out rather easily. Most likely they are dry and shriveled up.

Well, after 6 months or so of steeping, after baking the kernels and putting them in ?vodka? I tried a tablespoon over vanilla ice cream. Had seconds. Had thirds. Contemplated fourths, but managed to restrain myself. If I die of cyanide poisoning, what a last dessert! I will die happy. I'm in New Mexico, which has tons of apricots should the weather cooperate (moisture in spring, and no late frosts). My now annual go-to, weather permitting (and assuming I don't die of cyanide poisoning).

p.s. And use all those de-seeded apricots to make Marion Burros' plum torte (subbing apricots). Your family & friends will love you.

i can testify - delicious with apricots!

found an easy way to release the kernels: one at a time, wrap each kernel in a dishtowel and hit once with the flat side of a meat mallet, which has a larger surface area than a hammer. also, works better when the pits are fully dried.

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